Great stuff. Ribadesella and the Indianos homes are very cool. Not to mention the food. Asturias is the one region that put Spanish food on another level for us.
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We’ve stayed in several casonas Indianas, & this summer for a week, just west of Ribadesella at La Raposera in Caravia. It’s a hamlet that houses several impressive indiano mansions, whose owners emigrated to different parts of South America/Mexico. Many are members of the https://www.turismoasturias.es/casonas-asturianasCasonas Asturianas Club de Calidad group.
Here’s one
For those interested in the fascinating history of the indianos and their emigration to the Américas, or for those Americans who have Asturian great grandparents or ancestors who emigrated, the Fundación Archivo de Indianos in Colombres is very much worth a visit.
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Of all the places you tried in Asturias, are there any that you would describe as “must go” places? In the sense that you would go out of your way to go back there again? I am planning our vacation in Asturias for next spring, and there is such a huge number of great sounding restaurants. I’m starting to try to narrow things down in my mind.
I also have Maribel’s dining guide to the area, which only makes my list longer…
I’d nominate CASA GERARDO and MOLIN DE MINGO for a spot on your list.
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@ssinny95
Of all the dining spots I’ve listed in my Asturias dining guide, the ones that I would consider “must go” places for a first time visitor would be-
Casa Marcial,
with 3 Michelin stars
Molín de Mingo,
run by Nacho Manzano’s wife & mother-in-law, a totally unique adventure
Güeyu Mar
for Abel’s perfectly grilled wild fish
La Huertona
(ditto for the fish)–GM & La Huertona are very different experiences
El Pancar
outside of Llanes, which now has added Le Bistró for more casual dining
If you were to make your way down from Oviedo to the Cuenca Minera or stop there on your way up from León,
our most recent discovery:
Casa Chuchu
with a delightful staff, terrific wine list, no tourists, charming atmosphere in the tiny hamlet of Turón outside of Mieres.
But also in the Cuenca Minera, we gave a “no” to the more highly touted Monte
Outside of the Basque Country, Asturias, in my book, has the largest number of truly outstanding restaurants in northern Spain.
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Thanks, Erica and Maribel!
Molín de Mingo is one place that is most definitely on the list. Casa Chuchu looks like exactly the type of place we like to stumble upon.
@Maribel, what about Monte made it a “no” for you?
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Another vote for Molin de Mingo as a must go and unless there is an ingredient you or your group can’t tolerate, the Pitu de Caleya (chicken rice with roasted peppers) is a must order.
I also think Gueyu Mar should be on the list. I used to really enjoy casa Gerardo but it’s dropped in quality since covid significantly.
Id try and find another place doing classics like fabada and fabes con almejas (beans with clams).
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Unfortunately we spent only 3 days total in Asturias. It was an introductory visit for us. Gueyu Mar and La Huertona were the most interesting places.
Casa Gerardo felt a bit below the claimed value. May be a menu above the introductory level or a la cart selection would be a better option. My wife was enchanted by Asturias and we are definitely coming back.
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@ssinny95
It was the chef’s presentation at SS Gastronomika, the least impressive of all the “show cooking” demonstrations we attended in the Makro pavilion (most all were Michelin-starred chefs). Instead of showcasing one of his greatest hits, he prepared a cheese and had us taste it (so..so) and also the rennet. I felt like he was just “phoning it in” and at Monte there isn’t an a la carte option.
Yes, that Pitu de Caleya is a “must order” at El Molín de Mingo" plus her tortos. And go hungry! Dulce and mom have changed the concept a bit, serving a tasting menu only, and it varies according to the season and ingredients available. And it’s Thursday through Sunday, lunch only. But now one can reserve online!
In my guide, I give instructions on the correct route to the mill. Don’t use Siri!
For a classic place for fabada, fabes con almejas, pote asturiano or verdinas con bugre (baby greenish beans with lobster), you might consider one of the restaurants belonging to the Club de Guisanderas de Asturias (female chefs working in the countryside)----
like…
El Llar de Viri in Candamo, 30 min. south of the brightly colored (and heavily visited) fishing village of Cudillero. Repsol recommended.
or…
Casa Eutimio in Lastres on the coast
or..
Casa Belarmino in Gozón, also on the coast
This summer we plan to spend a week or so on the western coast rather than eastern and will base either in San Esteban de Pravia at the Gran Hotel Brillante or the Pleamar in Puerto de Vega (a member of Casonas Asturianas) to hit up the great dining on the western coast, like Mesón El Centro.
If you need a more central place to hit both coasts, the Palacio de Luces is lovely and an easy, quick drive down to catch the fast Autovía del Cantábrico (easier than El Pueblo Astur, but that’s also a deluxe option).
BTW, we loved our stay at the Barceló Cervantes in Oviedo.
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I’m either forgetting or didnt realize Casa Marcial getting a third star. When we ate there it had one or two. Great setting.
Molín de Mingo +1
The other memorable meal we had was Guernica in Luanco. Outstanding rice dishes and seafood
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CM received its 3rd star last year. We attended a “show cooking” with Esther and Chus (Nacho’s sister and her son, who is now the chef de cuisine), just a day before the 3rd star was awarded.
I’ll put Guernica on my list, thanks.
People don’t usually associate Asturias with producing great rice dishes, but we’ve had some memorable ones, the most recent at Quince Nudos (Ribadesella) and other arroz caldoso (soupy rice) dishes.
From my favorite gastro critic, who happens to be an Asturiano-
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Guernica looks great. It’s going on the list.
Maribel, we are staying at Barceló Cervantes, too. That and El Gran Sueno in Pintueles.
I wish we had made a reservation at El Gran Sueño but didn’t have time for it. Next summer, I hope.
The parking in Barcelo Cervantes is a major pain with cars in both direction going the same rout…
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You’ll have a great time at El Gran Sueno. David and Javier are wonderful hosts.
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This is very true but it’s also the case, unfortunately, in most of the hotel parking garages we’ve experienced lately, now that we travel everywhere by car.
What we enjoyed about the Barceló Cervantes were the very contemporary rooms, unlike the aging ones at the Reconquista and the wonderful location, so close to the beautiful park, Campo San Francisco, filled with statuary (even including a Mafalda). Plus the quick walk to Gloria (of the Nacho Manzano dining empire), the amazing Coalla Gourmet, selling every Asturian treat and wine imaginable, the easy but longer walk to the historic quarter and Calle Gascona (cider house row), and the shopping! nearby for chocolates (Peñalba), moscovitas (Rialto), carbayones (Camilo de Blas) and the excellent pastries of Auseva.
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That’s our big concern about Barceló Cervantes. We may wait to rent a car.
That’s great to hear about El Gran Sueño. It looks wonderful.
Note that from the main road it’s 5km on a windy very narrow road for 2 cars passing (even by European standards) and a single lane from there to the village. Take care returning after dark in particular.
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That might be a better idea, to rent a car upon leaving Oviedo. We now can’t avoid that, but it was our modus operandi when staying in these Spanish cities before we moved.
