Just to report back on this.
We got carried away listening to a Brazilian band in a square near Ramiro and by the time we got there it wasn’t early anymore and the queue didn’t look like much fun. We went back for lunch on the next day and it was very civil, I get that people like busy atmosphere but we walked straight in at lunch and it was perfect. I’ll add my name to the thousands recommending this place.
We went to Solar dos Presuntos, where the portions were absolutely enormous. It was quite a sprawling touristy place but it actually wasn’t to its detriment. They put a load of cured meats, cheeses, breads and olives on the table before you arrive. You can tell them to take away whatever you don’t want and it doesn’t get added to the bill.
Although this place is known for seafood I’m a sucker for goat, and my partner had a seafood risotto if I remember correctly. An enjoyable, and expectedly not cheap meal.
We made it to Taberna da Rua das Flores. When you put your name down early in the evening I think they give you a time or at least an indication of when to come back. There’s a kiosk in the square at the top of the hill where you can have a drink, and nearer the time they are happy to serve you drinks whilst you wait outside the restaurant. Menu was varied modern small plates, quite a few Asian influences (don’t expect Portuguese classics). Another winner.
We had a bargain lunch on the same street at Das Flores. Good simple meat and fish dishes that were extremely good value. Very small room, lots of locals, I think we were lucky to get a table walking in.
And I recommend the viniportugal store in the Comércio Square if you want to get to know Portuguese wines. Rechargable card with a sealed nitrogen or whatever system, they have a constant turnover of open bottles across a wide spectrum of variaties, including ports. And it’s nice and air-conditioned if you need to cool off.
