I just scanned the NYT article - it’s more of a writeup on an old local institution that’s still around with the third generation joining the business (than suggesting it’s better than anywhere else).
I’ve taken guests there because of the “typical” banquet room and carts, and they’ve enjoyed it. Golden Unicorn generates a similar reaction.
Nom Wah was similarly written up a few years ago which sparked new interest, especially from visitors - the long lines were not because the food was better (most of it is better elsewhere). But history is worth something, and a NYT article will do a lot for a place.
