Italy in May 2025: Emilia-Romagna, Bologna, and Venice

In looking at Osteria alle Testiere, they only take reservations for tables of 2. Anyone had any luck walking in there? They are on break until Jan 15, but once they are back, I was going to email them and ask what they recommend. They do not take reservations via phone or email, so I am thinking the best bet is potentially, grab a reservation for two, then email them and let them know it will only be me. But I think I want to clear that with them first. I really wish restaurants would stop on only allowing reservations for 2 tops or more. A lot of places in Paris and New York do this as well. Most the places where I am a regular in NYC though tell me to reserve for two, and then just them know it will just be me.

I’ve done this in Spain a few times, always worked out for me and if you’re staying in a hotel ask the concierge to make the booking for you.

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Photos of diners on their web site range from Stanley Tucci to Norah Jones…
Our daugther was just admitted to a studio design program for the fall semester in Venice, so looking forward to your report.

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We haven’t been in maybe 20 years (actually 19 – just looked it up). However, I remember our dinner at Osteria alle Testiere well as, even thought the place was backed, we heard a conversation from a nearby table talking about whether the food was better than at al di la (a place we frequented and like in Park Slope Brooklyn). I looked over and assured them it was. It really was and, if its still as it was, it really is.

As a bonus, here’s one of my favorite photos in Venice, taken while visiting the old “Jewish Quarter”. Brooklyn is everywhere.

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I am always of two minds about this. These small restaurants need to fill their seats. But given that you will be there in May, and will check in with them in January, when they are back from break, I think you should go for it! What do you have to lose?

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the one time we were there there was a single guy who I believe was able to walk in. But it was more jammed than any resto I have ever seen before, and people were very much on time. I think what you propose makes sense, maybe in a month or so. And then contact them, maybe you can text. Im sure there are others in the same position as you. The guy wound up seated with a seated party with an extra seat. Its that kind of place.

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Love the photo, Steve!
I’d go to the restaurant when I arrive in Venice and just beg for a table, any time and any date.
Usually works for me, especially when I am alone. Remember doing this in Florence at Trattoria Cibreo and ended up sitting at a two-top with Fabio Picchi, who gifted me a great bottle of the oil they used at the restaurant (forget the name but it was wonderful). And I never got a bill for my dinner.

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Am planning to follow somewhat in your footsteps, and Da Noemi in Ferrara looks like the kind of restaurant I would probably go out of my way to try, and as you are planning to be based there…Also, will be particularly interested in what you are thinking about (and actually find in) E-R aside from the bigger cities (though I will probably spend a couple of nights in Bologna).

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This is now my plan.

Did a 2 week trip around 5-6 years ago in E-R. Imho I found driving around the country side nicer than being in the big cities. Also, the food was better.

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How small are the streets to get to Amerigo 1934? Too small to drive to with a small SUV?

dont worry. Its a small town, Italians drive these cars too and it looks like there is parking in the town center. just do a google search on the name of the town and there are plenty of pictures. Also they have rooms - which offer free parking. https://amerigo1934.com/la-locanda/

The pictures of their food is great - it looks luscious.

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No - we were driving an Audi Q5 from Bologna to Amerigo and didn’t have any problems

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Got some fresh inspiration watching the new series on National Geographic with Antoni Porowski. The episode with Justin Theroux was amazing. I have a few places I am adding to the wish list.

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And that inspiration will have to be used for a later trip. Had to cut the first 6 nights off the trip. So now, just flying into Bologna for the race at Imola (fly out on May 13, arrive May 14). We are most likely going to stay in Modena for a night (with double booking of our AirBnB for Thursday night (we will have one place in Modena and one in Bologna to give ourselves flexbility, and that is cheaper than hotels)) then move back to Bologna. We have hospitality and three day tickets for the race in Imola, so we will be heading there each day on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. We might not spend all day on each (and we may just do all day Saturday and Sunday), but that is going to be the primary activity on those days.

Then on Monday, I am headed to Venice. I will be in Venice from the 19th through the 26th. Flights are all booked, and I am working on getting trains and rental cars all synced up as well.

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