Continuing with Enoteca Pinchiorri…
After a week of bistecca ala Fiorintina, prosciutto of every description, and wild boar ragu, we all ordered mainly fish. We went all white with the wines, a first for the trip. Two Sauvignon blancs - Sassicaia and Gaja. The Sassicaia was probably the favorite, crisp, flinty, just enough body to add complexity. The Gaja with our mains was more complex, more viscous, a bit more yellow and definitely more complex. Though not as refreshing as the Sassicaia it was nonetheless the better choice with our mains.
The second amuse was three individual bites, a herb-infused miniature wreath of pastry, a tartlet with a custard-like emulsion, and a small pickled radish. The radish won.
Bread service rivaled the water — abundant and varied. The typical Tuscan bread is white and unsalted - really crying out to be dipped in good olive oil - but we did see any of that all evening. Instead it was a succession of brioche, breadsticks, focaccia and more. The breadsticks were phenomenal, very thin, very long, and lightly salted. As he passed them the waiter winked and told us the minimum was two. We all regretted not taking a large handful.
On to the starters, primi, and mains. A succession of beautifully composed plates. I started with amberjack, thin raw sheets lightly marinated in a smoked vinegar, decorated with herbs and edible flowers, topped with generous portions of two types of caviar, gold and black. For my primi, agnolotti stuffed with roasted Guinea hen in an aged Parmesan sauce. The agnolotti was a single large circle , with a serrated edge as if cut using pinking shears, in the shape of a rose. The pasta here as elsewhere this week made me realize what I’ve been calling al dente would be considered overcooked by Florentines. For my main, I had mullet filets with pumpkin juice, decorated with tiny snails stewed with fennel, tarragon, and lemon. And the requisite edible flowers.
Three in our party had turbot baked in a salt and flower crust that was removed tableside. Beautiful presentation.
My BIL, with impressive capacity, ordered from the cheese cart before the succession of deserts. We both ordered a vanilla soufflé that required 25 minutes to prepare. The time went quickly, though, punctuated by palate cleansers and a pre-desert of a disk, not quite a pudding, not quite a meringue, a bit gelatinous, reminiscent of a rice pudding. Decorated with a rose-colored wafer in the shape of a leaf, All very good - forgive my vague descriptions— I wasn’t taking notes 
. Then the mignardises.
On departure the ladies all received small bags with handmade chocolates, the gentlemen a bound volume of vignettes about other Relais & Chateaux properties. I should have asked for the chocolate.
As delightful as the food was, the service was especially memorable. Warm, welcoming, even light -hearted, solicitous, nimble, and attentive. There were three main servers, but I counted 4 others who stepped in in various roles.
The $$$ was impressive too, the sort of thing we can only afford only rarely, and consider ourselves fortunate to be able to. But as my SO said, it was worth it. An evening with our daughter, and BIL and SIL, that will continue to provide memories.
