Is there ways to save the plants if there is attack from fungus? Or it doesn’t worth the effort?
I am not familiar with that fungu, and in general don’t strugglipe with fungus problems, but last year been oil was my friend. I don’t recall right now exactly what was going on, but t seemed been I’ll kept popping up as a potential solution. I’m sure it’s no miracle, but I recall thinking it was great to have around.
Can you explain more on this oil? I try googling, couldn’t find any information.
@naf; I’m sorry. That was supposed to be NEEM oil.
SO many typos. I hope the reast of it was understandable.
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An update on my citrus plants, finger lime finally shows some life. Although I have to confirm the other 2 didn’t make it.
The plant last spring when I got it.
I hope the new growth is of finger lime, I have read that it could be the lower part of the graft plant. Let’s keep the fingers crossed.
The Yuzu was not affected at all with the frost. A lot of new leaves.
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Fungi are difficult to eradicate, once established, unless you have access to fungicides. Organic controls, like Neem can help with some leaf fungi. Potassium salts and even milk sprays can work with Powdery Mildew, Downy Mildew. Copper-based sprays work on some fungi. Powdered Sulfur is used in some cases, such as preventing Brown Rot on immature peaches. To halt Brown Rot (Monilinia) in harvested peaches, they can be submerged in hot water, 130 degrees F (54 C) for about 4 minutes. Google the problem fungus for more info.
Fungicides are regulated by states and country. In the US, Captan and Daconil are available to consumers, registered for use on food plants. Always read and follow label instructions. For ornamental plants that are not eaten, there are systemic fungicides which work better, since the plant absorbs the chemical. Some fungicides are “Restricted Use” and one must be licensed to purchase or apply them. Often, this is because the product is sold as a concentrate. Some are available without a license, if sold diluted with water or other carrier.
The subject is too vast for a simple blog! There are so many types of fungi, growing on different plants. Here, in Virginia, we have a lot of fungus issues, some recently imported and others “native”. Humidity, rain and stress favor fungi, but some are designed to attack even the healthiest of plants. So, the myth that healthy plants will not get diseased is not entirely true. I can quickly list a lot of fungi which can attack perfectly healthy plants.
Aside from good sanitation. You can also avoid getting leaves and plant crowns wet. Use soaker hoses, drip emitters, etc. Water a few inches away from the plants’ stems, near the drip line. Avoid deep mulch near stems. Water during the morning. Allow plants to approach dryness once in awhile, not to the point of wilting.
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I remember reading Neem oil might be better for preventing and controlling fungus on tomatoes and peppers, but it won’t cure them. The first time I saw mildew on a pepper plant I couldn’t believe it! . As soon as I realized what it was, I treated/sprayed my pepper plants pretty regularly. I think my big problems are usually related to heat and dryness. Mites and thrips especially.
I have used Daconil on my fruit trees during our rainy/dormant season. I keep some around, but don’t recall praying on veg.
So far, the roses are black spot free this year, when it starts to rain a lot, back to the milk treatment.
My biggest problem are peacock spots of olive tree and leaf curl of peach tree. Both have several copper treatment each year. Olive tree is kind of stable now, peach plant doesn’t look optimistic. Here the biggest problem is continuous rain, sometimes it can last 3 weeks non-stop.
This is about ere-using pottting mix in sub-irrigation planters. To hear everyone’s thoughts!
From http://albopepper.com/index.php
I’d especially like some help with thinking about " perched water tables."
And this…
“However, I don’t recommend treating your SIP like a hydroponic system”.
I do both, and for some, I’m not sure I see the difference. For example, I’m growing Creole garlic in a sip, where the soil is only a few inches thick, and I can see the majority of the roots in the resevoir. Last year the ones I grew in the sip did better than some I did in pots, and a six inch soil, two inch resevoir did better than a thee inch soil, two inch resevoir.
“I’m growing Creole garlic in a sip, where the soil is only a few inches thick, and I can see the majority of the roots in the resevoir. Last year the ones I grew in the sip did better than some I did in pots, and a six inch soil, two inch resevoir did better than a thee inch soil, two inch resevoir.”
For safe keeping, but I suppose I should move this to the container sub-forum.
SIPs » The All-Important Overflow Drain Hole Revisited
"If you position the overflow drain hole at 3”, you will have a 3” water level when full and a 1” layer of air inside each of the reservoir chambers. I would not do this but mention it only for illustration purposes. "
“If you live in a very hot climate, you might want to experiment and expand the water holding capacity of the SIP by positioning the overflow drain hole at 5”. This could extend the period between refills.”
"You should definitely product test this before converting multiple planters. You want to be sure that the extra high overflow is not causing over watering. "
"When you fill the planter, you will have a 5” high water level, 4” of it in the reservoir and 1” of wet soil above. In a hot climate, this is probably of little consequence since the rate of photosynthesis and transpiration is very high. The 1” of very wet soil will dry down in a short time and there will be no root rot.&
3 inch soil
6 inch soil
Reading through this thread makes me feel that gardening is fraught with danger and pestilence.
Here is a photo of my happy potato plants and my happy onion plants. To cheer things up a a bit. 
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Bookwich, your veggies are infested with Gnomes! I suggest beer traps to lure them away, lest they combine all your onions and potatoes into the classic “Gnomish Hot Pot”.
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Nice! Guess we know what’s for dinner!
First cherry tomato! And my chervil plant is finally coming to life, it was a small seedling that didn’t look very robust for several weeks but now seems happy. And last pic is my parsley caterpillar (there are more than a few on the plant) which will turn into a beautiful black swallowtail butterfly. Last year I got rid of them all as they were devouring the plant and after I killed them I looked them up and wished I hadn’t. This year I’m happy to have them and will go out and get a couple more parsley plants to share.
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I harvested the scapes from my garlic last weekend - unfortunately, since I wasn’t home this spring to fertilize properly, I have a feeling my garlic harvest is going to be lackluster. The scapes were smaller than last year for sure, but I had enough to make a large batch of garlic scape pesto so I can’t complain too much! My blackberries set a nice crop of fruit this year and are taking their time to ripen. Raspberries set some fruit too, but not as much as I was hoping for. I think I have an all-season producing variety so we’ll see what happens later. I have pumpkin and melon vines sprouting, peppers and cherry tomatoes in the ground waiting to fruit, herbs all doing well. Hoping for a good season now that I’m back to tend to things!
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What a lovely post. Your caterpillar is gorgeous.
I know what you mean but I’m pissed at them right now because yesterday they ate my entire parsley plant in less than one day. I’m growing in pots and don’t have room for too many plants so I only had the one. Last year they ate all my dill. Grrrrr.
In this case, I would have tossed them on some plants in real nature (public space).
