I don’t know what I did here–forgot to say at Pizzeria di Scala, I couldn’t resist a salad with burrata and summer tomatoes and a summer pizza special: burrata, eggplant, sauce of yellow datterini (little tomatoes). Yes, double burrata, double tomatoes. But given that it was late July, ordering the summer specials seemed wise.
I can eat a lot, but I only go out to dinner or a real sit-down lunch every other day or so. I usually just snack on the intervening days.
No idea where to next. What about you? Spain?
Isernia, Molise
Isernia is a quickish drive from Naples, maybe 2 hours, easy driving.
I had never been to Molise before but my research suggested that I would be able to explore some lesser-known sites (including Sannite ruins) and enjoy shady hikes with waterfalls, all in an untouristy part of Italy. Still, I was a little afraid that there wouldn’t be enough to keep my interested, so I combined it with a longer stay in Abruzzo, where I had been, albeit briefly, nine years ago.
While Molise is sleepy and doesn’t even exist, it seems to be growing in popularity as there were plenty of Italian tourists enjoying this beautiful region. Cheeses, meat, fish feature prominently on the menus.
First dinner was at Existo Osteria Molisana, where I took a primo “Le Origini”, a secondo, the Uruguayan beef (replaced potatoes with broccoli)–ordered this because I guy at a nearby table was eating it and clearly delighted, and a dolce (a cake with cherries and pistachios). No small portions here! I didn’t think the ravioli worked, in particular because of the dusting of black pepper–just too much. In fact, if I were to fault Existo, I would say it’s the creative flourishes that let me down. The steak was excellent, the dessert decadent, the vegan amuse of lentils with a red pepper cream and a little fried onion, very nice. But the ravioli, for me, no.
Excellent local olive oil with decent bread to start.
Vegan amuse. Tasty.
Too much black pepper!
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There are two upscale-ish restaurants in Isernia proper: Ausa, which is vegetarian, and Distinto. I booked Distinto, which features a modern dining room smack-dab in the historic center of town.
The chef and his sister, who works FOH, are both from Isernia and opened the restaurant at the beginning of the pandemic, the realization of a long-time dream. The menu consists largely of creative/modern interpretations of Molisan classics, with a heavy emphasis on local products and local wines. (I should mention that until arriving in Isernia, I had never tried a Tintilia wine before. Thumbs up!)
Having had a full day of hiking, waterfall swimming, and town-hopping, I decided to simplify my life with the shorter tasting menu (40E) with wine pairing. Highlights for me were: housemade bread and grissini, the fantastic olive oil, the mini fried polenta with cheese and mini arancino, the egg croccante in a fonduta of caciocavallo di
Agnone, the maccheroni with sugo + local cheese, their version of panzarella, which was served with a healthy portion of Molisan cheese (of course). Way, way too much food for me. A great bargain, though!
After the sister seated me, she brought me their version of a spritz.
Even salad gets a hearty, HEARTY addition of cheese in Molise.
Pork tenderloin, cooked at low temperature, with pickled red onions, a currant/apple (?) conserve, and jus. I don’t care for pork tenderloin in general and compared to some of the earlier dishes, this didn’t “sing” to me. Comfort food, but not my kind of comfort food.
Mignardises of chocolates, meringues, and caramels, accompanied by fruit sauces and nuts which you can paint on.
Although Isernia appears to be up-and-coming as a tourist destination, I’m not sure it can support two higher end restaurants. I was there on a Saturday night and although the town itself was hopping, I was one of only two occupied tables. And the cooking and service are terrific! I suspect most Italians head to Molise for a taste of rustic life.
This family are so kind, so warm and welcoming, cooking at a high level using top ingredients, so I hope they can hang on.
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About town.
Isernia was bombed by the Americans on September 10, 1943, in an effort to hinder retreating Germans. The majority of those killed were civilians.
View from where I parked my rental car.
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Carpinone and its cascate about a 20-minute drive from Isernia. Unless you’re me, then it takes 45 minutes.
Small-town humor.
who’s up for a renovation project?
Yes, the water was cold!
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..and for yours truly, the drive would take an hour!
Leely, really, this is one fantastic report, with great photos! Good for you!!
I love that salad of cubed vegetables…with the ample dollops of cheese! Lots of chopping but it certainly looks great.
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erica, the salad was delicious. I actually added that course, perpetually in search of vegetables. It’s panzanella–not sure why I misspelled above–so it also featured large croutons made of the house bread underneath the veggies.
Also, to be clear, the tasting menu was 40E, and wine pairing (all Molisana wines) was additional. A tremendous value. The 60E menu includes fish courses too.
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I hope you checked out Slowfood snail Viva Lo Re in Ercolano? we had a great meal there a number of years ago and daughter and partner last spring. We were impressed by Herculaneum too.
Catching up. This pizza!
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Unfortunately, the timing didn’t work out to have either lunch or dinner in Ercolano. Next time!
My last night in Isernia I asked for a recommendation for something simple, not too much food, not too heavy. Got sent to a fine-not-fab pizza restaurant, everything good enough, except maybe the service. Next day on my way out of town, I stopped at Panificio Blanz, which I had read about in Gambero Rosso.
Pizza again, Panificio Blanz
They were unfortunately out of the morbidone with chocolate, what I was most hoping to find. This is a plain morbidone. Morbido means soft in Italian. Yes, this is a big soft bun, brioche-y. If you stop at Panificio Blanz, go early for more choice or go big and try the crazy sandwich thing they specialize in–too big for me, after the past few dinners.
ETA: Here is an Instagram link to a story where they delve into the insanely gigantic and decadent Molisana sandwich (panonta di Miranda) that Panificio Blanz makes. Hearty appetites only.
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LOVE how you used flaneur as a verb. I have done that too it my blog. Such a great word.
Great pics, too.
