Just to connect this with the separate boeuf bourguignon thread, I’m not really sure who David Lebovitz is, other than vague memories from Chowhound that he is an expat blogger. I think there was an example of a resto in the 12th, maybe A la Biche au Bois, whose usual clientele of fleshy French geezers was replaced by Americans within weeks of his review. I wonder if this is an example of the lemming effect or just the inevitable funnelling of many tourists who need to rely on English-language sources (so much more limiting and distorting than French-language sources).
But of course this is precisely what it is.
How many of the hundreds of thousands of American visitors to France have enough French language skills to research on French language forums or sites? Of course their resources are limited to popular reports, but are they not better than none?
And, in fact, here we are on an English language forum…
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@ Daniel
Before David Lebovitz moved to France, he was amongst the top 5 pastry chefs in the states. He worked with iconic chef / California cuisine pioneer Alice Waters at Chez Panisse in Berkeley.
He was trained as a pastry chef, with certificates from Callebaut College in Belgium, as well as Ecole Lenôtre and Valrhona’s Ecole du Grand Chocolat in France. He wrote tons of cooking related books and has his own food blog.
Hence, I was most excited by his endorsement of Teillet’s Tarte Normande! Cannot wait!
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Parn: if you have the time/inclination, you might want to take a look at “My Paris Kitchen”, “The Sweet Life in Paris” &/or “L’Appart”. Of course, he also has a website: https://davidlebovitz.substack.com.
We are not arguing Libovitz’s credentials or his innate talent but pointing out that he is, after all, an American in Paris. The question was why Americans follow American gurus on the subject of the Parisian experience.
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Not sure if you thought I was disagreeing with you. Far from it. Although Parn and Ptipois are kind enough to share (in English) their ideas/expertise, most of what I’ve had/have access to is from folks like JT, Onzieme, you and the several other current or ex-pat Americans (or from other places) posting their experiences on these boards and/or writing blogs.
Thanks, Steve. After quickly browsing his site, I have the impression (i.e. could be wrong) that he doesn’t go out much, isn’t an explorer when it comes to restaurants, and tends to feature the usual suspects already reviewed and recommended by other expat food bloggers like the better known (in Paris) Alexander Lobrano, the once prolific John Talbott, and the folks at Paris by Mouth. I sense he has a target audience of older Americans of his generation and, with a few exceptions, may be out of touch with today’s Paris.
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Brava ! Your observation is right on point.
In this case, it’s a bit stinging for us locals and frequent visitors that a retired pastry chef and expat from California who doesn’t get out much is considered by some as the final authority on Paris, its food, and its restaurants.
But if John Talbott or Alexander Lobrano or someone better known/ respected in Paris had been cited, we would probably feel far less slighted.
Neat rhyme in the last part of that sentence, eh ? (sticking tongue out).
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Hint: Google Translate.
Although it hasn’t grasped the intricacies of Turkish and a few other syntax challenging languages, I find Google Translate very useful for figuring out the restaurant and food scene in many foreign cities by using clued-in local sources.
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In defence of David Lebovitz, I think he attracts some followers because of how he curates his experiences.
https://www.davidlebovitz.com/category/paris/
He is also in frequent correspondence, through posts on his blogs with other bloggers with big followings, such as Smitten Kitchen. They generate traffic to their respective sites when the link to one another’s recipes and posts.
I think the layout of David’s site and IG posts, much like Clothilde’s Chocolate and Zucchini back when it was more popular, appeal to North Americans.
David’s recipes and cooking/baking tips are excellent, so he has a following that includes a more general audience, than people following h for his Paris and French food tips.
I didn’t pay much attention to him until I made his cassis jam in 2015. His recipes are very good.
As a Canadian, the only reason I knew about Talbott’s tips was because I was an active Chowhound who researched restaurants before travelling.
I haven’t used any of David Lebovitz’s restaurant or bakery tips, and use his site more as a resource for recipes.
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I hesitate to tell you about the other bloggers that people I know have used as “authorities” on Paris, Rome and other heavily touristed cities. In fact, I shudder to think how many have used me for what they consider “expert” advice in Paris. We were texted this past weekend by a niece currently in Paris, asking (a bit late, no?) “where should we eat tonight”? But, as pilgrim stated upthread “…are they not better than none”?
Living in (relatively newly) trendy Brooklyn, we now come across many tourists from Italy, France & other places who have heard that we are worth visiting while they are in NYC. However, just about none of them has had anything more than guide books & word of mouth to steer them. While I know that our area is full of various French & Italian ex-pats & I’m sure that there must be blogs, etc emanating from some of them to a French & Italian audience (in French or Italian), most of the folks we encounter don’t know of these resources. And they are almost as happy as I am when “listening” to you, pilgrim et al when my wife and I rattle off (Ginny speaks Italian & some French, while I try to speak slow Brooklynese) where they should go/see/avoid.
Thanks Parn, I am downloading Google Translate to my phone.
This talk about Tarte Normande reminded me about the first and only time I attempted to make a Tarte Tatin (I know, not the same). I initially thought it came out pretty good. My guests oohed and ahhed over it. But I noticed they barely ate it. Left quite a bit on their plates. The problem - too sweet. A little goes a long way. So, never made it again. I think I’m also going to check out Phillipe Teillet. Charles when are you going? I welcome your trip report.
I had a wonderful French dining experience a few years ago in New York City. Dinner at Le Coq Rico, an offshoot of Chef Antoine Westermann’s restaurant in Paris. I thought the roasted Bresse chicken was phenomenal. I mean chicken is chicken, right? No! This was the zenith of roast chicken. We then walked to an Aux Merveilleux de Fred for dessert. What a delicious little fluff ball.
Unfortunately, Chef Westermann had a major dispute with someone at Le Coq Rico, and he walked out of the kitchen. It is a new spot now called La Rotisserie. I believe there are still a few Freds in the city.
Parn – you are very much mistaken with your assumption that Lebovitz does not get out much, and that he is retired. Just follow him on Instagram.
The reason why I posted the Tarte Normande recommendation from Lebovitz is not because he is an American commenting on a Paris experience, but it was because he was a pasty chef at Chez Panisse for thirteen years, and more likely than not knows more about pastry than anyone on this board would ever dream of knowing.
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Thanks to you all and for those of you who are interested. Here’s the FINAL eating list for my up coming 8 days in and around Paris.
- Les Enfants du Marche
- Chez Fernand Christine
- Le Petite Bouillon Pharamond
- Le Crab Marteau
- Granite
- Sacree Fleur
- Chez Tiouiche ( Versailles )
- Comptoir de la Gastronomie
- Montee
- L’Ami Jean
- Eels
- Josephine Chez Dumonet
- Assiette Champenoise ( Reims )
- Seulenent Sea
WISH US LUCK!!
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Bingo. I know Teillet, it’s right in my neighborhood, it’s not exactly the best boulanger in the area but I sometimes buy bread from them. I am scratching my head over this endorsement of their tarte normande. It is a good tarte normande, period. No need to ride across the city for it. I suppose the reason may lie in 1. Pilgrim’s lucid opinion on gurus and 2. the fact that tartes normandes in Paris are definitely not a frequent encounter. The enthusiasm was probably related to their local rarity, like finding a cèpe in the Jardin des Plantes. Take a drive to Normandy and they’re all over the place.
As ever, I’m cautious about “best this” or “best that” endorsements. Some boulangers (like the newly relocated Pichard place Maubert who advertises their croissant skills in Vegas billboard size) proudly display their “best” awards, but sometimes these date back to years ago and may have lost their pertinence. And award juries are, you know (I do, I have been one).
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Thank you for your interesting and useful info., Learned something new again!
BTW, I have just noticed on Google Maps that our Airbnb apartment unit is less than 10 minutes walk from Place Monge and the Mouffetard food market! So, I can get the Tarte from Teillet and then head across to Mouffetard for some other ( or better ) baked goods. Any good places you would like us to try in that neighbourhood ( shops and eateries )? Looking at some postings, guess we’ll definitely be getting our hand on seafood/shellfish from the Mouffetard fish monger and eat them for snacks in our apartment! Those prawns looked gorgeous!
Have a Safe and Happy Easter weekend!
