GALICIA 2025....Brief comments

I tried to make a few edits but ran out of time. The last sweet dish, the one I can’t remember anything about, is named PEIDO DE LOBO after a local mushroom.

This is a very interesting article, only in Spanish:

Tasting menu price is 190 euro.

This meal brought back reminders of our lunch, more than ten years ago, at ASADOR ETXEBARRI; there were quite a few similarities: The masterful use of fire in the kitchen (clue the descriptor, “asador,”) the presentation of the dishes and the decor of the dining room.

A downright unforgettable meal; to be repeated, perhaps next spring.

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TIRA DO CORDEL, Finisterra

Famous for their grilled lubina, bass, this was a standout restaurant for both of us. It’s housed in a former salting factory, facing a sublime crescent of white sand, just out of the town of Fisterra (do not trust GPS, look for the sign on the main road). Both of us felt that this was among our best meals of the trip:

Setting:

Menu:


One of two dining rooms:

Map of area:

Whole lubina: .9 kilo:

Green salad, with Viera in back:

Viera, scallop from Ferrol, on a bed of fantastic caramelized onions. !!!

The bass, served with great oil and large flakes of salt:

The fish with, again, those great Galician potatoes:

Lunch cost 87.80 euro; the lubina was 74 euro per kilo and cost 66.50 euro.

Highly recommended and worth a detour!!

https://tiradocordel.com

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O FRAGON, Muxia

Another standout meal at this port-side restaurant in Muxia; a few miles from where we stayed, at the Parador Costa do Morte. This was #1 on TripAdvisor, which made me leery, but I was very glad we had dinner here:


Whole turbot, grilled. Excellent, as usual in these parts:

Solomillo de Cerdo, pork tenderloin, as described by our ebullient waiter, David. On a bed of mashed potatoes with butter and truffles.

Galician cheesecake stands heads and tails above the New York version:

Interior of restaurant, at about 9pm on a Wednesday night:

We had one last dinner at A LONXA D’ALVARO, a few steps away on the Muxia waterfront. This is Michelin rated, and was is one of the least satisfying meals of our trip. (But still pretty good!)

I had volandeiras (small scallops) which were slightly overcooked but tasty enough, with a thin sheet of pork fat melted in. My partner had a terrific beef dish; this was not the famed Rubia Gallega beef but a solomillo with foie and a sauce of Pedro Jimenez. I ordered a lubina but once the raw fish was brought to the table to inspect, I decided on just a green salad, and the scallops. They have a large number of octopus dishes; I regret not trying one of those.

Sublime kimchee butter, served with great brown bread:

The scallops:

Mundane green salad:

Bill was 60.70 euro with glass of Godello and water

Along with about 2 dozen tins of conservas–navajas, ventresca, mussels, etc-- we came home with some great cheeses:

When the supplies run out, we hope to make a return visit—probably next June.

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My kind of lunch!!! :heart_eyes:

Vastly different than my visit to Galicia 2 years ago, when I arrived in Santiago on foot from Siguiero.

I believe dinner that night was Raxos in one of the holes in the wall near the cathedral with a caña (or three) with our fellow pelegrinos that we had been walking with.

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I just found this article about eating in Santiago:

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This thread has made my hungry–and put Galicia higher on my “where next?” list!

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Curiously, I had no appetite for the first couple of days of my Camino, to a point that my friend literally shook me by the shoulders and told me I had to eat, or he would force-feed me. We were walking 15-20 km a day and I wasnt coming close to replacing the calorie spend.

We found a place in Betanzos where a Dominican lady was making the best fried chicken I have ever had. We carried it back to albergue and tore into it like a couple of starving vultures.

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My appetite on the Camino was also off. I would arrive after a full day hiking, wash out my clothes, and be too exhausted for much more than a couple beers and a bag of chips. Not the healthiest fuel!

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Looked at this thread again and I mistakenly labeled the Muxia restaurant; it’s A FURNA, not O FRAGON!