I’m tossing in an old workhorse of ours. Les Papilles is a wine bar 10 minutes south of the St. Michel. I have been touting it for newcomers for years because what it serves is high quality, totally approachable, delicious, service correct. Yes, it is full of tourists because it is so publicized but also locals continually come in hoping for a free table. The problem is that while Bertrand is a neighborhood fixture, his local buddies are shut out by tourists who have been savvy enough to reserve. So, the gimmick? A no choice menu of a superb garnished soup you serve yourself from a tureen left on the table, a main course of a copper pot of some kind of excellent beef, veal or pork braise, small cheese course, dessert. Wine chosen off the wall or, as we do, by Bertrand’s suggestion. Bottle is recorked and bagged for you to take home should you not finish the bottle. Surrounded by tourists, but well behaved ones. Definitely not a trap.
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