Fantastic French Cooking and Otherworldly Imported Cheeses - Bistro LQ Pop-Up [Thoughts + Pics]

Update 1:

One of the special events that Chef Laurent Quenioux hosts annually is his Cassoulet Dinner. This year, with Chef Laurent serving as the Executive Chef at The Wolves in Downtown, he was able to host the annual Cassoulet Dinner at that location instead.

Walking into The Wolves, it’s easy to see why it garnered plenty of attention for its interior design. It looks like a stunning steampunk bar; simply gorgeous.

Aperitif - Byrrh Grand Quinquina and Orange Zest:

Refreshing, lightly fruity-sweet.

Bread & Butter Bordier (Normandy, France):

Excellent French Butter, it’s creamy, has a real depth-of-flavor that most standard Butters don’t have.

I decided to try their Cocktail Pairing (they also had a Wine Pairing option) for this meal. All Cocktails were prepared by The Wolves’ “Cocktail Chef” Nathan McCullough.

“Prey For Us” Cocktail - Gin, Haricot Vert, Coconut Milk, Epazote, Fresh Lime:

When does a Cocktail no longer qualify as being a “Cocktail”? Perhaps when there are more vegetables and fruits than a Smoothie? :slight_smile: This 1st Cocktail Pairing threw up some alerts. It is wild and truly interesting to have a Cocktail with Haricot Vert (and I love Haricot Vert… just as a cooked Vegetable dish and not in my Cocktail). This was very “green”, vegetal, tasting of blended Haricot Vert, the Epazote added a fragrant herbal element, the Coconut Milk added the creaminess.

By itself, it was distinct and unusual. With the 1st course (below)? An excellent pairing that complemented the flavors.

Poached Leeks in Chicken Stock | Smoked Herring | Vinaigrette Gribiche:

The Smoked Herring was incredible: A real delicate, gentle smoke infusion, the Herring meat was moist and tender. The Poached Leeks in Chicken Stock perfectly accented each bite of the Smoked Herring. :heart:

“Let Them Talk” Cocktail - Brandy, Shiitake Mushrooms, Lavender, Cream Sherry, Honey, Fresh Lemon:

And things went off the deep end with this next Cocktail, “Let Them Talk.” A fitting name, this was odd, unique, off-putting and just not what you are mentally prepared for when enjoying a Cocktail. The actual fresh Lavender sprig exuded a strong scent (which on its own is pleasant), but then combined with the chunk of Raw Shiitake Mushrooms, and the pureed Shiitake Mushrooms in the drink? :open_mouth: :sweat:

There must’ve been additional herbs and bitters in here, because the overall sip was… medicinal, savory(!), earthy, tasting of the woods, pungent herbal and more. I’ve never tasted anything like this in a drink, and it was… not pleasant, but not horrible either. We were joined by one of my best friends (from Taiwan) and she said that it reminded her of a Chinese medicine shop.

Did it pair with the 2nd Course? Sort of, but the Cocktail was way too pungent, funky, herbal that it dominated the food even.

Poached Hen Egg Meurette in Red Wine | Lardons | Garlic Toast:

Thankfully Chef Laurent’s cooking saved the day again, and removed any oddity from the Cocktail from the bar manager. The Poached Hen Egg Meurette in Red Wine was outstanding! :heart:

A beautifully poached Hen’s Egg, the Meurette Red Wine Sauce was stunning in its concentration (all made from scratch as usual). I secretly wanted another piece of Bread to sop up all of the incredible Sauce. :blush:

1920’s Cocktail - Fig Rye Whiskey, Dry Vermouth, House Sweet Vermouth Blend, Orange Bitters & Zest:

This 3rd Cocktail Pairing thankfully returned to the realm of drinkable, a sort of cross between a Manhattan and an Old Fashioned. This was fine, a touch boozy, and it didn’t really pair that well with the main course (Cassoulet). The Wine Pairing for this course worked better.

Cassoulet | Tarbais Beans, Duck Leg Confit | Homemade Saucisse de Toulouse | Homemade Saucisson a L’ail | Confit Pork Belly | Lamb Shoulder Baked for Seven Hours:

To understand how great this homely dish is from the South of France, especially in the talented hands of Chef Laurent, one only need to take a single bite and sit back and enjoy. Chef Laurent’s Cassoulet is packed with individual ingredients that could all be the star of their own dish. Let’s start with 2 types of Homemade Sausage, Saucisse de Toulouse and a Saucisson a L’ail. Chef Laurent takes the time to make 2 types of French Sausage from scratch, just because it tastes better. :slight_smile: And both Homemade Sausages are fantastic! Deeply porcine, salty, meaty, a nice snap. It adds the salt component to the overall Cassoulet.

The Duck Leg Confit is delicious! Slow cooked, succulent Duck meat that was cooked in its own Duck Fat. It was SO GOOD! :heart:

The Confit Pork Belly and Lamb Shoulder Baked for 7 Hours were more standouts. But the Tarbais Beans, plump, earthy, meaty, was maybe my favorite part of the whole Cassoulet. Taken as a whole, the Cassoulet was a massive portion, extremely comforting, hearty, and just outstanding. :heart:

Unpasteurized Cheese Plate (Imported from France):

The one downside to having a Bistro LQ Pop-Up meal outside of Chef Laurent’s home is that the famed Unpasteurized Cheese Cart rarely makes an appearance. On this evening, Chef Laurent was offering a selection of the Unpasteurized Cheeses from France - 3 Types - but that was it. It’s understandable in cutting down on food waste (since he may not sell all his rare Cheeses during this remote location Pop-Up), but it’s a highlight that shouldn’t be missed if you get to try a full Cheese Cart at one of his other Pop-Ups.

Still these 3 Unpasteurized Cheeses were excellent! Truly exuding massive flavor that you just don’t get with most Cheese you find here in America.

Charleston Brew - Cocoa Nib Bourbon, Espresso Blend, Roasted Croissant, St. George Coffee Liqueur, House Whip, Burnt Tortillas:

Reading the description definitely raised some eyebrows: A Cocktail with Roasted Croissants and Burnt Tortillas mixed in? We actually couldn’t taste Burnt Tortillas, but that was probably the charred topping, adding a naturally smoky-charred angle perhaps. The Roasted Croissant? It was probably blended in to thicken the Cocktail, so there wasn’t anything overtly tasting like actual Croissant pastry while sipping. Overall, it was a Dessert Cocktail and it was fine.

Cassis Floating Island | Almonds:

A classic Dessert, I’ve enjoyed various interpretations of the Floating Island (or, île flottante) over the years. The delicate Meringue was extremely light, like a cloud, and the Cassis / Blackcurrant Sauce was tart-sweet and worked. Although I do prefer a great Creme Anglaise instead.

This was yet another outstanding Bistro LQ Pop-Up, celebrating Chef Laurent’s legendary Cassoulet. Even if Chef Laurent only served his Cassoulet, I would a happy camper, because that dish alone is worth it, every year. But thankfully, on top of the stunning Cassoulet, Chef Laurent has additional courses that were simply incredible. The Smoked Herring with Poached Leeks in Chicken Stock is on point, and that Poached Hen Egg Meurette in Red Wine with Lardons is the best I’ve had in the city.

Bistro LQ
(Check his website for future Pop-Up Event Dates and Reservations):
http://www.bistrolq.com/lq-foodings

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