Il Clandestino - Fantastic last minute find. An all seafood menu was just what the doctor ordered. The room and environment a little fancier than what we were in the mood for, but the staff makes you comfortable, especially the Chef/owner. Almost no need to open the meu. The owner comes out to ask everyone the same question āso, what do you want to eatā. I couldnāt help myself of course so āsteak, Faraona, Korean fried chickenā¦ā. He said no problem. Some chefs like one we met in Langhe should stay in the kitchen, while some like this guy should come out more.
Spaghetti with seafood mix including lobster. Iād come back just for this. Simple, clean, well balanced, absolutely sublime. Ravioli with lobster and shrimp, very plain looking, with just a little butter, but bursting with flavor. John Dory, expertly cooked, meaty, fresh. Sea bream even better. Surprisingly average award winning Tiramisu, the only miss.
Iām also very curious to hear more of your experiences. I know you said your wife does not like the winters there but wondering if you have any intel on what it is like in Cuneo and surrounding areas (La Morra, etc.) between Christmas and into the first week of January. I donāt mind winter weather/winter travel and this period happens to be the only time when I can take vacation undisturbed by my job, as my industry is completely shut down during this time. I had a wonderful time in Torino during this time many years ago, but get the sense that these smaller towns Iād love to visit have little or nothing open in terms of hotels or restaurants etc. Any knowledge to share is welcome! (or if this is off topic for the board I am happy to give you a direct contact for me)
Ziggy, here in Pennsylvania, Iām looking at your photos and thinking that it would be really great to go to these restaurants. However, when Iām in Italy, my choice will be between a nice meal at home or a long drive followed by a big expense. The long drive will sometimes win, but I wouldnāt bet on the big expense.
Jennifer, Off topic for this thread, but it seems to me that a new thread could be started easily enough.
Thread drift is natural and happens all the time, but I think starting a new thread would be welcomed by everyone who wants to discuss the topic further
Ended the trip with an unexpected doozy. We stayed in a place called Casa Rampolina, high above Stresa, overlooking the lake. Beautiful views on nice days. The owners happened to own a restaurant that turned out to be one of the most popular if not the most popular in the entire area for locals. I thought it was a potential tourist trap, but we were the only tourists in a very packed house (confirmed by the owner). The place has a huge parking lot that requires an attendant to manage the traffic. A local celebrity chef (didnāt catch his name) just happened to eat there at the same time doing selfies with other patrons
Awesome silky smooth Fassona carpaccio special with Bagna Cauda. Egg, Toma cheese, veggies concoction was exactly what you expect. Excellent Tagliatelle with rabbit ragu. A little different flavor profile than the ones we tasted in other parts. We usually share everything including mains but this time we had our clear favorites. A fine slow baked beef for Mrs Z. Fassona hanger (Tagliata di Diaframma) for me. Best cooked Fassona of the trip by far. Waiter suggested to have it rare, and I can see why. Its much thicker than the usual Hanger, good amount of char, and supremely flavorful. The only place where I saw other cuts like Hanger. Even the Tiramisu was awesome this time.
The only issue was the subpar wine by the glass (Nebbiolo and Arnais). We had a lot of good luck with house wines and wines by the glass but not this time. I should have taken advantage of the big wine list. But overall, I couldnāt have asked for a better finish to another wonderful eating trip in Italy.
Curious if you happen to know if the vegetables on top of that carpaccio are cardi gobbi di Nizza, a heritage vegetable that in English can be called ācardoonā? Hereās a pic of the vegetable that my husband snapped at a market. Itās the cream-colored veg that resembes celery.
Apparently itās the season for cardi in Piemonte. I hadnāt heard of it before our recent trip. I tasted cardi in a cheese sauce as a first course. I adore trying vegetables that are new to me, though this one didnāt land a place among my favorites.
Thanks again for sharing the details of your delicious meals with us!
I see cardoons in the USQ Greenamrket in season; not yet this year.
Interesting that when I go to Madrid in March, they are often offered "off the menu as specials; one of my favorite restaurants there offers them in an almond milk sauce). Iāll be there next week and see if I can spot some.
I would also love to hear about less-touristed areas of Piemonte and Val dāAosta, a region that Fred Plotkin is wild about and that therefore, has long called my interest.
Zigggy thank youā¦youāve done it again: Made us all drool and given us all āfood for travel!ā
These are the cardoons at TASQUITA DE ENFRENTE in Madrid, one of my āgo-toā places in that city for extreme food lovers. they put black truffles, shaved, on top.
I do agree that I would not have the patience to clean them and prepare them in my own kitchen; alone they do not seem to have much tasteā¦
The town Fred Plotkin raves about in Aosta is Cogne. Would that region make a good pairing with Piemonte, especially for a pair not all that interested in wine (!?)
Another town, in Liguria, that I was told by a local is a real food Mecca and that does not draw many tourists is Montemarcello, close to the Tuscan border.
This person lived in Camogli and for a while, years back, posted informative yet contentious, information on that town and on Liguria in general. She posted often on Fodorās under various screen namesā¦since she lived in the area, many of her posts were very helpful although many did not enjoy her style. We met years ago for lunch at Nonna Nina and the meal was superb. but Iāve not heard from or about her in at least ten yearsā¦
In my mind, Conge is one of the worldās great centers of mountaineering, ice climbing, and backpacking. Asked to guess, I would have thought that Cliff Bars and instant hot cocoa would have been the meals of choice. Perhaps this is too much of a stereotype? Gran Paradisio National Park is certainly one of the greatest wilderness areas in Europe and I did hike there when I was younger.
Mountaineering, ice climbing and backpacking. With Cliff bars!!! Iāll take the hot cocoa, but maybe Cogne is not my investigation after all. Or better yet, Iāll read about it here when a more sporty HO type ventures there!
Active, outdoor sports are really popular in Italy, especially Piemonte. However, the āCliff Barsā thing was poetic license. In the backcountry, Iām a big protein bar consumer, but Iām not really sure what brands are big in Italy.
But you still made me chuckle! I actually now drink āwheyā powder mixed with milk a few times a week, so you can laugh along with meā¦
I have to investigate the Plotkin/Cogne linkā¦very odd that that town gets almost no track on TA (might be a great thing there), Fodors, or hereā¦hmmmmmā¦have to look into the Italian food sites with my very weak grasp of the language.
Iām getting oldā¦running out of time for various destinationsā¦need to choose wisely!!! Iām only halfway joking here, sad to sayā¦
So where next in Italy, I ask myself. If this Puglia trip does not happen, or if it does, where next? What have I missed in the South? I fear it may mean turning my gaze northwards. Last time Iāve been north of Rome was a trip to Norcia, Senegallia (YES, more, please), Ascoli, and Sulmona, finishing up with a few nights at a fancy hotel in Romeā¦
Loved the feel of Abruzzo and never did get to L"Aquila.
Would also like to explore Genoa and more of Liguria.
Does anyone ever feel that theyāve āseen it all; Iām ready to stay home and rest???ā
I feel like Iāve seen enough as a tourist and am much more interested in knowing my two little corners of the world (Lancaster, PA and Entracque, CN) more deeply than in seeing different places.
As for Italy, go where the weather is good! And see if you can find places that Italians like for weekends but foreigners donāt know about.
