I’ve dried very large quantities and many varieties of peppers, both sweet and hot. Here, it’s too humid to dry them outdoors, and the sun can bleach some of the color out. There are also insect pests which can infest dried peppers, including the meal moth larvae and certain beetles.
The dehydrator gets set to 120°F, (49°C). It often takes days for the pods to dry out properly, due to the skin. One way to save space and greatly speed up drying time is to cut the pods in half and remove the core and seeds before putting in the dehydrator. This is a must with juicy peppers like bells or pimentos.
Another pre-drying trick is to smoke the fresh peppers in a covered smoker outdoors. I build a very low charcoal fire in the center and put soaked cherry and/or hickory wood on the coals. The peppers, often pasilla (Bajio negro) and Ancho, are piled in a circular ring on the grate, with a hole in the center. Directly over the coals, it’s too hot, even if the drafts are nearly closed. After hours of smoking, the peppers are split, cored and dried, usually on the porch. The odor is too strong for indoors!
It’s a good idea to “condition” dried peppers. While they may appear dry, moisture may be present, hidden. Put the peppers in tight jars for a day or two. If moisture is present, the peppers will soften as moisture evens out. Even if they don’t change, further dehydrating is wise, just to make sure.
I pack dried peppers into mason jars, add an oxygen absorbing packet, and vacuum-seal the jars. Kept dark and in the cool basement, they last for many years without losing quality. Oxygen ultimately ruins the flavor of dried peppers and causes red or yellow colors to turn brown. Light, especially sunlight, is also destructive. Here is where halved peppers work better because you can fit more per jar. Another option is to use oxygen absorbing packets and seal the dry peppers in mylar bags, using a heat sealer. I’d put the peppers in a foil pouch first; see below.
A vacuum sealer which has an accessory port often has the ability to vacuum-seal jars, if one gets the attachments. I don’t trust peppers to be in contact with plastic vacuum bags, long term. Who knows how the capsaicins and oils react if in contact with plastic. One could put the peppers in a foil pouch, prior to vacuum-sealing in a bag; I’ve done that with hops. For larger peppers, half gallon mason jars work well.
Powders are made in a Vitamix, with the grinding blade container. I’m sure a blender would work. For best quality, always de-seed the peppers first, by hand or by using a fan/wind to separate the seeds. If you make powders or flakes, they can be preserved very well for long-term storage using the techniques described above. Pack the jars tightly, not just to squeeze out oxygen, but to help prevent the vacuum sealer from pulling up dust. Don’t fill jars to the top; leave about a finger or thumb space from the rim. Even without oxygen absorbing packets or vacuum-sealing, powders keep very well in airtight containers (glass) and frozen. These techniques eliminate the tendency of powders or flakes to lose quality.
Oxygen absorbing packets are inexpensive. They’re basically iron powder with a trace of moisture inside a membrane which keeps the moisture in it. The packets form rust when exposed to air, pulling oxygen out of the container, if it is sealed properly. Since the packets are usually sold in groups, typically 10, having a vacuum-sealer is handy to save the packets you don’t use. An added bonus of an oxygen-free storage: no insect pests!
If you plan on toasting dried peppers, leave them whole and dry them lying flat. I’ve cut the tops off, removing the stems and creating an easier way for moisture to escape. Figure seeds will fall out during the drying.
Using an oven for drying is possible, but it’s energy-intensive, it’ll heat the house, and it’s harder to prevent excess heat from evaporating fragrances. For those on a budget, check second-hand stores, flea markets and yard sales. Place the dehydrator in a fire proof spot, just in case! I had a plastic one melt down because the fan failed after the thermostat locked on; I’m glad it was on a sheet metal surface. Now, I use a ten-shelf, stainless steel model, which is easier to repair. That appliance has been worked to death over the years.
