I am always sceptical about reopening with a new concept - they tend to be dumped down ones with less creative, more “mainstream”, “save” dishes
I share that skepticism, in general.
René Becker has an interesting food mind, though, and Shepard had been running on crippled gear for a while since they lost their “license” to grill on wood. I’d wait for the new concept in this case before I judged.
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As fooddabbler pointed out, Becker and Shephard were hamstrung by a few neighbors and the city. The elimination of the wood stove was at the core of the restaurant from both an atmosphere and culinary perspective. The turn around seems quick. I’d like them take some time to tweak the space a bit. It is a bit austere for my taste. I do hope they succeed as Shepard really didn’t get a fair shake.
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Although I have a few issues with the counter staff and the prices at Hi-Rise Bakery, I do love their sandwiches, the combinations with very high quality ingredients and condiments like their house-made harissa, and the soups and baked goods as well. René Becker does have “an interesting food mind” in my view as well.
Emone Tofu, a Korean stew place, is now open in the old location of Wow Barbecue in Malden.
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I had lunch at Emone today–it was pretty good! The place is bright and clean, with a helpful staff and a woody interior. (I don’t know what it was like as Wow Barbecue). You get six banchan–fish cake, tiny salted anchovies, some nice seaweed, a sweet potato salad ball, some steamed broccoli (not pictured with the other small dishes below–they brought it out late) and what tastes like housemade kimchi. Kimchi was a bit sweet, but crunchy and spicy. The clam/tofu soup was studded with small clams and had loads of good toothsome tofu (they also give you an egg to crack into it). I ordered “pretty spicy”, but it wasn’t really all that hot but did have at least some red pepper flake edge. I got pork belly with it as a combo, and got a large serving of meat atop onions, maybe a bit underseasoned but it was accompanied by a salty side sauce. All in all a good meal and a nice addition to the Malden Asian dining scene.
Also went by the 99 market after. I had read in the NYT that “cheese tea” would be one of the food trends of 2019, and lo and behold one of the stalls inside the market is now a cheese tea joint. Looks like maybe a franchise, but I don’t know exactly as most of the signage was in Chinese.
There’s also now a new Halal market call Fouad Market in this same plaza. I checked it out, but it wasn’t super exciting grocery wise though there is a full serve butcher counter. Probably good if you live nearby (though Atlas Market is close & seems way better).
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