California Food Journalism and News 2020 [SF Bay Area, Los Angeles and the rest of California]

excerpt:

There were other soondubu restaurants before BCD but few made the dish as accessible and available. None have been as successful.

Food is prepared in the kitchen of the Wilshire Boulevard BCD Tofu House.

(Spencer Weiner / Los Angeles Times)

Oakland Kosher Foods
3419 Lakeshore Ave,
Oakland, CA 94610

Phone: (510) 839-0177
E-Fax: kosherfoods@hpeprint.com

E-Mail: oaklandkosherfoods@gmail.com

Hours
Sun: 9:00am - 7:00pm
Mon: 9:00am - 6:00pm
Tue: 9:00am - 6:00pm
Wed: 9:00am - 6:00pm
Thu: 9:00am - 7:00pm
Fri: 9:00am - 4:00pm
Sat: Closed

Thanks for posting this! I’ll need a good source of K for P products when the time comes, and this place is closer to me than any Mollie Stone’s.

Oh, I missed the news that Three Twins closed. I guess these were the last I had from them. That was sad.

Beauty’s Bagel Shop is now open daily from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. (menu below). The new Oakland branch of Wise Sons will open at 1700 Franklin Street sometime in September — it, too, will be open every day.

Well that sucks, Beauty’s bagel’s were much better than Wise Sons and now they aren’t going to be baked in a wood oven anymore. The first time I went to Wise Sons was when they are doing pop ups and the pastrami was really good. The last time I went 3-4 years ago, they had gone downhill significantly and were using a slicer for the pastrami rather than hand cutting it.

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Wise Sons seems to be all over the Bay Area now. South Bay, East Bay, etc… They seem to like the track of Noah’s Bagels.

I actually like Wise & Sons bagels–the ones I had were very close to my favorite NYC bagels. And if I can get pastrami at Beauty Bagels AND they still have their bialys, then that is an awesome thing! It’s a lot easier for me to get to Temescal than SF.

excerpt:

Chris Ying met Meehan and David Chang in 2009 while putting together an experimental newspaper, called the San Francisco Panorama , which featured a food section, for McSweeney’s. A year later, the pair approached Ying, who had cooked in restaurants, with an idea for a food magazine. The first issue, exuding pork fat and swagger and bad words to spare, was overseen by Meehan and Ying and put together by McSweeney’s staff, with significant input from Chang. In addition to its restaurant cred, the magazine’s aesthetics and zine-like attitude borrowed from indie rock culture, positioning it as a publication for those left out of the mainstream.

Every institution seems to be failing, and failing us. Navigating media jobs over screens during this frightening moment has left workers isolated and exhausted, but also in possession of a strange freedom. As career ladders crumble, many journalists are doubling down on the one thing the job can still offer: a sense of meaning. That meaning grows sour if bosses are cruel or inequities are entrenched, and calling out a famous, perhaps brilliant editor as a bad boss is less intimidating if there’s no newsroom to face them in. The best hope is for a better way of life to rise from America’s disastrous failure, but right now, the pandemic still rages — the worst may just be beginning. Those with professional jobs in cities willing to issue stay-at-home orders, a bleak blessing, are trapped at home with nothing but time to reassess the past’s failures, and enumerate what must be born anew.

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excerpts:

In the South Bay, the CZU Lightning Complex Fires have burned 67,000 acres and forced 77,000 people in San Mateo and Santa Cruz Counties to evacuate as of Sunday evening, including directors Jered Lawson and Nancy Vail of Pescadero’s Pie Ranch. The farm lost its historic 1863 farmhouse, which housed apprentices in its nonprofit training program.

The Molino Creek Farming Collective, an organic farm run by several families in Davenport, lost “everything but the tomatoes.” In a Facebook post on Friday, a representative for the farm wrote, “All of our people are safe. The fire burnt some people’s homes and not others. Much of our infrastructure is intact but we lost most of our fence posts, some of our water tanks, lots of our orchard, some outbuildings, etc.”

Nearby, Swanton Berry Farm saw many of its long-time workers lose their housing, and TomKat Ranch also evacuated their animals and staff early on as a preventative measure.

Editor’s note: For readers who want to help, Central Valley community members are maintaining and sharing a list of crowdfunding pages for farms, families, and individuals who have been affected by the fires. CAFF has also launched a 2020 Fire Fund to support affected farmers and communities.

photo: A barn at Pie Ranch in Pescadero that burned during the 2020 California wildfires. (Photo credit: Jered Lawson)

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https://www.sacbee.com/news/california/article245247030.html

Smoke from California wildfires could sour grapes awaiting harvest, wineries say

One option for vintners worried about smoke damage may be rosé wines, which use less of the grape’s skin, The San Francisco Chronicle reported in another story. The skin is what absorbs most of the damaging compounds from smoke.

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Photo:Workers in the San Joaquin Valley recently harvested corn before dawn to avoid the worst heat of the day. Photographs by Brian L. Frank

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By 10:30 a.m., it was unbearably hot. Hundreds of wildfires were burning to the north, and so much smoke was settling into the San Joaquin Valley that the local air pollution agency issued a health alert. Ms. Flores, 19, who had joined her mother in the fields after her father lost his job in the early days of the coronavirus pandemic, found it hard to breathe in between the tightly planted rows. Her jeans were soaked with sweat.

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Jonathan Kauffman is a James Beard Award-winning food journalist, a former San Francisco Chronicle reporter, and the author of Hippie Food , a history of the 1970s natural-foods movement. Follow him on Twitter.

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Henry’s Hunan

At the time, Cantonese food dominated the neighborhood. Even though the Immigration and Nationality Act of 1965 had removed racist quotas and opened America to immigrants from Asian and African countries, most Chinese-speaking immigrants were still coming from Hong Kong or Taiwan, not Hunan. The restaurant’s house-smoked meats and spicy, garlicky flavors were a novelty for Chinatown residents and non-Chinese San Franciscans alike. Henry’s Hunan became an institution, and through the work of the Chungs and their children, a city-wide chain.

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Melissa Hung is a writer, swimmer, and good eater. Her writing about culture and immigrant communities has appeared in NPR, Vogue, and Longreads. Follow her on Twitter. Follow Resy, too.

excerpt:

Perhaps because of the seafood-mayo combination, there’s a misperception that honey walnut shrimp is an American Chinese invention. Rumor has it, though, that the dish originated in Hong Kong, then made its way to the United States in the 1980s and ’90s, perhaps as Hong Kong chefs moved stateside before the 1997 handover of the then-British colony to China.

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excerpt from near the bottom of the article:


Even if the neighborhood’s mom-and-pop shops and eateries recover, it won’t be enough to rebuild its economy, Teng says. “I think Chinatown needs to create something new, something extraordinary, to become a major destination and anchor that will attract regional visitors as well as international tourists to come and stay.”

That something could be a new cultural center. The Chinatown Media and Arts Collaborative — an unprecedented partnership of the Chinatown development center, Chinese for Affirmative Action, the Chinese Historical Society of America, Angel Island Immigration Station Foundation, the Center for Asian American Media and the Chinese Culture Center — sees a cultural facility as an economic development strategy to help Chinatown’s recovery post-pandemic and to slow displacement and gentrification.

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Luke Tsai in SF Eater:

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By and large, though, “Mexican barbecue” isn’t an established genre of cuisine in the Bay Area restaurant scene.

In a handful of other Mexican-American communities around the country, however, it’s more widespread — in Los Angeles, for instance, where so many of the Mexican food trends in the U.S. first gain a foothold before they spread elsewhere. Cabral says the first prominent example he became aware of was East LA BBQ Co., whose founder, David Marin, built up a huge following among SoCal-based Raiders fans for his smoked ribs with chipotle barbecue sauce and smoked lengua tacos starting in 2014. There has been a wave of so-called Chicano barbecue pop-ups that have cropped up in LA in the years since — a natural evolution of the city’s “backyard carne asada culture,” Cabral says, as home grill masters started experimenting with smokers. Meanwhile, in Texas, there’s a whole slew of next-generation Mexican-American food trucks and restaurants that are fusing together the region’s deep Tex-Mex and barbecue traditions. Valentina’s, in Austin, is probably the most prominent of these, with its pit-roasted barbacoa and its smoked brisket breakfast tacos. For now, in Oakland, MexiQ is still something of a first mover.

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