Andalucia , anyone?

Moving on. More from Seville…

conTenedor

Disappointing mainly due to the service. Started great but took a nosedive. Painful waits and confusion. Maybe “Slow Food” here means something else. We saw people leave without ordering and we had to ask to eliminate the last dish because it was just getting too long. The place feels like a local institution that became touristy over the years.

The food wasnt bad though, and their star dish, Duck Rice, didnt disappoint. Elaborate, nice combination of sauces, textures and flavors. Another popular dish, the Pate was just ok. A bit over livery, lacking sweetness. The cheese plate was average. Turmeric Tagliatelle with coquinas was good especially the coquinas. Couldn’t risk dessert.



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5Jotas is not considered actually the “best” but is a strong competitor to Joselito, whose Joselito Gran Reserva many consider the “best” although there are many other competitors as well, such as Carrasco from Guijuelo, which many of the best bars in San Sebastián serve, including Casa Urola.

There´s also Monte Nevado, Fisan from Salamanca, Blásquez from Salamanca, COVAP Alta Expresión from Pedroches, Arturo Sánchez from Guijuelo (which does TWO montaneras feeding on acorns of encina and alcornoque)
Joselito is from Gijuelo, Salamanca where as 5 Jotas is from Jabugo, Huelva.

erica,
Just make sure that you ask if the jamón is 100% bellota, acorn fed, black label.

Ziggy went to. the very best place in Sevilla for jamón ibérico, says my friend, the spy. Casa Román is famous for it. But the seafood place, Jaylu (think the Sevilla version of Rafa) also serves outstanding jamón ibérico.

I´ve never heard any really ringing endorsement of ConTenedor, don´t know exactly why, but it´s supposed to be very vegetarian friendly.

Pedro,
Food Sherpas is in Málaga and gives a good food tour.

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Correct, I might skip the food tour in Madrid and just focus on this one in Malaga.

Finished the last of my stash from Mercado de la Paz. I preferred the Joselito Gran Reserva to the 5J. La Boulette had the Joselito that was aged for longer. Had more umami. It was priced at a premium to the 5J and the Joselito at Alvarez.

I remember the Carrasco from Guijuelo at Casa Urola. They also serve it at Askua in Valencia. Not as marbled but the umami flavour was really good. I can appreciate why it is a contender. They sell it at a local deli here too but prepacked at a really steep premium.

Hi Maribel, as you well know, there is nothing as “the best” when it comes to taste and food :o) Joselito is very good, but like Rolex, the price reflects the quality of their marketing as well as their product.
I was in Jabugo recently and had some delicious non branded jamons at reasonable price. People don’t realise the double classification system: First and most important is the pedigree of the pig weather both parents were “pata negra” or only one or neither. Then the type of feed it received, bellota (acorn) and free range, or mixed or rations…
Good article here: https://www.alimente.elconfidencial.com/consumo/2021-05-11/etiqueta-jamon-iberico_2348624/
I always follow your posts with great interest :o)

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Thanks for the link, Monchique!

There was an interesting article in the Gastro section of a newspaper I read last week about how many Spaniards (half!) actually distinguish jamón ibérico de bellota from jamón Serrano. They did a survey and 85% said that jamón de Teruel or Trévelez was ibérico, when in fact, it´s Serrano.

The article was titled “¿Jamón ibérico o de bellota? El 50% de los españoles no los diferencian”

We actually now have found a provider in Jabugo that sends us his sliced jamón, 100% bellota, free range, up to Madrid for a very reasonable price. Non branded but very good.

I’ll start including the cities for better searching

Bar Casa Morales (Seville) (lunch #1)

What a neat place. Just the type of old school I like. We showed up before opening so had no problems getting a table. High quality cold cuts. Much better quality cheese than we had the night before. Good tortilla. Solid Galician Octopus tho I prefer smaller pieces. Just a small sample since I had my eyes on lunch #2, to compensate for the less than thrilling dinners the previous few days dinners (although lunches so far including the food tour were very good)



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Bodeguita Romero (Seville) (Lunch #2)

The price you pay for lunch #1. Couldnt come here upon opening. We almost gave up after waiting on line for almost an hour. A nice British lady overheard us and pretty much ordered us to stay. So glad we did. Our favorite meal so far. While the Pringa was indeed outstanding, we liked everything else just as much. Started our Salmorejo love affair here. Didnt know what to expect from a cold “tomato soup”. Gorgeous, expertly cooked whole grilled squid. So much better than the night before. And then comes the Carillera (pork cheek)… Redhead baby angels singing. Flaky like cod and immensely flavorful.
Highly highly recommend. Thats two highlys on purpose.




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Wonderful comments and photos!
That first shot looks like the breakfast I ate at the Hospes and Cordoba (same breakfast I eat in most Spanish hotels when its included with the room) But undoubtedly without the quality of your pork and cheese, and in much thinner slices.

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Ziggy,
You went to my two very favorite “time warps” in Sevilla, Casa Morales and Bodeguita Romero.
They never fail me and are extremely reasonably priced.

The next time, try the “piripi” at Bodeguita Antonio Romero, or maybe you already tried it. It’s a little “montadito” sandwich filled with lomo (pork loin), bacon, cheese, tomato, mayo and a secret sauce. Absolutely delicious!

There are 3 Bodeguitas Antonio Romero now, one on Antonia Díaz 19, “Origen”, another on Antonia Díaz 4, “Reyes” and the third on Arfe 32. They were all our “hang out” places during this year’s Holy Week.

Two classic bocadillos of Sevilla, the “pringá” and the “piripi”.

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Maribel, that was my point! non branded can be just as good, as long as it is from the right pig :o)
I hope we meet one day somewhere in the Iberian Peninsula :yum:

Yes, that’s it!

I just read that once again the Ministry of Agriculture, Fishing and Alimentation has called for another competition for the best Iberian ham (100% bellota) for 2024.

Last year’s award was given to Jamones Aljomar of Guijuelo, Salamanca, one that I had never seen in restaurants nor in high end gourmet shops. Who knew?

Yes, somewhere on the Iberian peninsula, some day we shall finally meet, I hope. :yum:

Thanks! Didnt have a chance to try Piripi, but good to know

Eslava (Seville)

Sort of middle of the road. Not bad, not one of the best meals in Seville. Nice mix of award winning creative and simple/traditional. We actually preferred the latter overall. The award winnering cigar and and egg yolk dish were good, but flavors didnt really pop enough for me. Enjoyed the Puntillitas (fried baby squid) more. The Croquetas had a nice flavor but lacking texture. Garbanzo with chorizo was good. Ribs were too sweet tho I sort of knew that and ordered them anyway as our companions like that style (they liked it). Choc cake easily won over the rice pudding surprisingly. I was expecting more from the latter.



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Ziggy,
I’m glad you were able to snag a table inside Eslava for a sit-down meal.

I spent 5 nights in the apartments above Eslava during Holy Week and the crowds at Eslava were huge, as always happens during Holy Week because it’s next to the famous church of Jesús del Gran Poder.

Eslava has taken over the outdoor space in front of the next door El Pantera, and now those who don’t have reservations sometime get stuck dining outside at packed and rather uncomfortable high tables in front of Eslava and all the way down to the end of the street in front of El Pantera, which also has had a change of management.

With the new ownership, the Ovejas Negras group, things at Eslava have changed, but at least you enjoyed your meal. Eslava no longer makes it into my top 10. The former owner, Sr. Tovar, is sorely missed.

Nice report although I liked Eslava more than you did, some years ago.

Curious about the puntillitas. If you can recall, did they remove the clear internal parts that I believe are the spines?

So far it does not seem that Sevilla was the maximum food city that I remember, but I have not been in a few years…eager for more reporting, and thank you.

This is a new word in the dictionary that search engines didnt pick up yet.

“A person or thing that continuously wins”

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Eslava was the first reservations I made in Spain, months in advance. It wasnt very difficult.

When I researched I was mainly intrigued by all the award winners. Do they have these Tapas awards every year? Is it a big deal there?

Inside was comfortable, good service, and we were surrounded by nothing by tourists.

I was munching on those Puntillitas like sunflower seeds, and didnt really notice anything that wasnt supposed to be there. Probably my favorite dish.
I have no regrets going to Eslava. I just had better meals, especially the two on the next day.

Blanca Paloma (Seville)

Accidentally saved the best eating day for last. Showed up before opening for lunch, and the place quickly filled up. Recommend everything and anything shrimp. Phenomenal Shrimp a la Plancha (saw many eating them on the street). Eggplant stuffed with shrimp. Mini garlic shrimp burgers. All immensely flavorful. Crab Croquetas, more awesomeness. Also liked the Canelones, stuffed with pork and Roquefort sauce. The only thing keeping this from a slam dunk meal was the average cakes. They didnt have Torrija that day.
Also, one of the better Vermouths of the trip.
After trying the Spanish stand-alone Vermouth at Txikito in NYC, I was worried that its not really for me, but throughout my trip I couldnt get enough of it.
Go!




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