It was time for another visit to Mori Sushi. As before, Chef-Owner Masanori “Maru” Nagano greets us warmly and delivered another fantastic Omakase meal.
Tatsuriki - Nihon no Sakura (Cherry Blossoms of Japan) - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Hyogo, Japan):
It’s becoming a tradition at this point: Mori Sushi visit? Must order a bottle of Tatsuriki Nihon no Sakura (Cherry Blossoms of Japan) Sake. 
As before, it’s celebratory, so smooth and easy to drink. Our friend who tried it for the first time on this visit said it was “like the purest water”. It was an excellent pairing with our opening courses, especially the Zensai section.
Shungiku (Chrysanthemum Greens / Crown Daisy) with 3 Types of Sesame Seeds:
The opening bite was a beautifully prepared simmered Shungiku (Crown Daisy / Chrysanthemum Greens) in a Housemade Dashi (fantastic!) with 3 types of Sesame Seeds that added a nice spectrum of nuttiness.
(Zensai Course) Uchiwa Ebi (Fan Lobster); Awabi Kimo (Abalone Liver); Hotaru Ika (Firefly Squid); Takenoko (Young Bamboo); Toro to Takuan no Kunsei (Smoked Fatty Tuna Belly, Smoked Pickled Daikon); Sayori (Japanese Halfbeak) Fried Skin & Bones; Shin Shoga (New Ginger (Seasonal)):
Uchiwa Ebi - Fan Lobster (Kyushu, Japan):
We enjoyed the Uchiwa Ebi (Fan Lobster) we got last time with Maru-san, but this evening’s Uchiwa Ebi was even better(!). More supple, inherently sweeter than the last one, just excellent!
Awabi Kimo (Abalone Liver):
I don’t know what mad culinary skills Maru-san applies here, but the Awabi Kimo (Abalone Liver) tastes like the most incredible pure Abalone meat (not organ meat) that you’ve ever tasted! More tender than regular Abalone, a gorgeous infusion of a savory-lightly sweet Dashi, and a flawless pairing with the Tatsuriki Nihon no Sakura Sake! 
Hotaru Ika (Firefly Squid):
The Hotaru Ika (Firefly Squid) was even better! Supple, with a very gentle chew, but so tender.
Fried Sayori (Japanese Halfbeak) Skin & Bones:
Maru-san deep fried the Sayori bones to the point of being a delicious edible crunchy snack! The lovely fish oils from the Japanese Halfbeak Skin deep-fried was wonderful on its own, but even better with the Sake.
Takenoko - Young Bamboo:
Maru-san also presented fresh Takenoko, what he said was the season’s best Young Bamboo. Gently cooked in a different Housemade Dashi, this was so good! Lightly earthy, tender, there was a vegetal sweetness that matched the Dashi’s light savory qualities.
Toro to Takuan no Kunsei (Smoked Fatty Tuna Belly, Smoked Pickled Daikon):
This is becoming a signature item on Maru-san’s menu, part of his Zensai course the last few times we’ve visited. As before, Maru-san uses Apple Wood to smoke the Toro (Fatty Tuna Belly) and Takuan (Pickled Daikon Radish) for hours, before it’s ready to serve.
The Takuan no Kunsei (Smoked Pickled Daikon Radish) was as pleasing as before, an enticing smokiness that accentuates the Takuan’s crunchy, sweet Radish flavors.
The Toro no Kunsei (Smoked Fatty Tuna Belly) was absurd. Deep, rich smokiness, luscious Fatty Tuna Belly. And a flawless pairing with the Tatsuriki Sake! (@BradFord @A5KOBE @Sgee @ipsedixit and all!)
Shin Shoga (Young Ginger):
A surprise offering on the Zensai course, I appreciate that Maru-san was showcasing what was fresh for the season. The Shin Shoga (Young Ginger) was something he just got in, and he was pleased by the fresh vibrancy of it. It was cooked in sweet liquid, topped with Yuzu citrus zest. Really good!
Steamed Abalone Soup:
And while we were served the Awabi Kimo (Abalone Liver) for the opening Zensai course, next arrived the actual Steamed Abalone itself served in a Housemade Dashi Soup. Maru-san is a master of flavors, and here the Steamed Abalone is expertly cooked and presented to maximize its inherent flavors. Not only is it truly perfectly cooked through (so tender, a gentle bite, silky), but the Dashi Broth was simply nourishing. 
It felt like your soul was being cared for as you were drinking this Soup.
Koshi no Kanbai - Kinmuku - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Niigata, Japan):
Maru-san smiles as we order this next bottle of Koshi no Kanbai “Kinmuku” Junmai Daiginjo Sake. He confides it is his favorite Sake lineup. We’ve always enjoyed Koshi no Kanbai ever since we first tried it years ago, interestingly enough, at Mori Sushi. The Kinmuku is one of their top of the line bottles, it is “heavier” than the Tatsuriki Nihon no Sakura, but not in a bad way. It’s rounder, more robust, there’s a real gentle fruitiness (apples, maybe pears or melon), but the surprise is the rice flavors that come through(!). It’s gentle, subtle, but present. Lovely.
Tai no Kobujime - Wild Red Snapper wrapped in Konbu - Oita, Japan:
Always a great starter for the Nigiri courses. Gentle, pleasant, light meatiness.
Hotate - Scallop - Hokkaido, Japan:
Ridiculous.
Hokkaido’s best Scallops always impress, but this evening’s Scallops were some of the best I’ve had in recent memory. Silky, tender, just enough body to stand up to the bite. Super bright and fresh. There’s a real purity. I was so tempted to order another one immediately after finishing that bite. It was that good! (@paranoidgarliclover @Starch @BradFord and all)
Of course, the unsung star of each piece of Sushi we had as usual was Maru-san’s Shari (Sushi Rice). Maru-san (continuing the tradition and obsessiveness of Mori Sushi’s original owner, Mori Onodera) continues to go to great lengths to source the right Sushi Rice for his offerings. Originally he worked with a farm in California to grow and provide a specific Rice just for Mori Sushi(!), he’s now working with a farm in Japan to source a special blend of Sasanishiki and Koshihikari Rice, just for his restaurant. Wow! 
And it really makes a difference. You can taste and appreciate the individual grains of Rice, there’s just the right structure and density. It’s not overcooked, nor too mushy, nor too dry like some places around town.
Mizudako - Water Octopus - Hokkaido, Japan:
Very good! Soft, gentle chewiness, but slippery and quite tender.
Hata - Grouper - Mie, Japan:
I’ve enjoyed trying Hata (Grouper). It’s got a surprising meatiness, some chew, but not in a “rubbery” way. It’s just a meatier Fish, clean, more like a great White Fish in terms of flavor spectrum.
Sayori - Japanese Halfbeak - Tottori, Japan:
And while we previously got the Sayori Skin and Bones deep-fried (delicious!), Maru-san presented us with the Sayori meat in this Sushi course. Just a delicious, light oiliness (inherent), it’s one of my favorites, and tonight’s offering was excellent!
Aka Amadai - Red Tilefish - Miyazaki, Japan:
Maru-san lightly “sears” the Aka Amadai (Red Tilefish), and the result is a subtle smokiness giving way to this perfectly balanced, malleable, lightly oily, flavorful Fish. Outstanding!
Sawara - Spanish Mackerel - Hokkaido, Japan:
The progression is fantastic, and now comes Sawara (Spanish Mackerel), another highlight on this evening. A lovely oiliness, delicate brininess, and it paired wonderfully with the Koshi no Kanbai Kinmuku!
Maguro Zuke - Bluefin Tuna - North Carolina, U.S.A.:
Maguro (Bluefin Tuna) can really be hit-or-miss depending on the sourcing and the itamae preparing it. Sometimes it can taste bland, or uninspired, or you can have stunning preparations like this evening’s Maguro Zuke, where Maru-san marinates the Maguro in his special blend of Shoyu (Soy Sauce). And the sourcing from North Carolina (which is a surprise) continues to delight. This is some of the best Maguro Zuke I’ve had in years! One of the highlights of the evening! (@BradFord @ipsedixit @js76wisco and all)
Sakura Buri - Seasonal Adult Yellowtail - Mie, Japan:
But perhaps the most stunning bite this evening would have to go to the Sakura Buri (Special Variation of Adult Yellowtail). I’m always a fan of Yellowtail in all its various forms, but Buri is when its caught and served fully grown. This special Sakura Buri was simply incredible: Fatty, but not too fatty. There was a balance with the lean, a touch lighter than you’d expect Buri to be. Lush, but not overwhelming, incredible mouthfeel. Highlight of the evening!
Masu - Ocean Trout - Tasmania:
Another excellent bite! This current portion of our Omakase course featured this incredible lineup of Fish that were slightly fatty, but not overly so. The Masu (Ocean Trout) would’ve been another highlight, but being put right after the stunning Buri just overshadowed the next piece.
Kokuryu (Black Dragon) - Hachijuhachigo (Number 88) - Daiginjo Sake (Fukui, Japan):
Sake fans might be familiar with Kokuryu (Black Dragon). They have some excellent bottles. However, on this night, as we were considering what to get for a 3rd bottle of Sake, Maru-san gets a glint in his eye, and mentions he just got in a Limited Edition bottle from Kokuryu called Hachijuhachigo, which means “Number 88.” I’ve never heard of this before. I was excited.
This was pretty ridiculous. It was very clean, crisp, dryer than the Koshi no Kanbai Kinmuku, so that was a nice change for this final part of the Omakase course. Was it the best Sake I’ve ever had? No. But it was pretty tasty and a worthwhile try.
Kamasu - Baby Barracuda - Nagasaki, Japan:
I loved the gentle smokiness, this turned out to be a nice contrast to the previous few Fish, and helped adjust our palate for the next few.
Ohtoro - Fattiest Tuna Belly - North Carolina, U.S.A.:
Incredibly fatty and decadent. A fine example of one of the most popular Sushi offerings. Truly melt in your mouth.
Saba - Mackerel - Miyazaki, Japan:
Flawless. Maru-san really draws out the best flavors from Hikarimono (Silver-Skinned Fish). Saba (Mackerel) can sometimes get out of control, unbalanced at lesser skilled places. But in the hands of Maru-san, the preparation and final taste just hits a pinnacle. A controlled, deep complex oiliness (inherent), salinity in check, lovely brininess, and a fantastic pairing with the Limited Edition Kokuryu Hachijuhachigo Sake! (@BradFord @A5KOBE )
Shiro Ebi - Baby White Shrimp - Toyama, Japan:
During Spring, I always look forward to Shiro Ebi (Baby White Shrimp), and Maru-san always finds a good source when it’s in season. Each piece of this Shiro Ebi nigiri is made up of a bunch of tiny Baby White Shrimp. It’s like a far more delicate, pliant, silky Sweet Shrimp. Another highlight of the evening!
Nodoguro - Blackthroat Sea Perch - Shimane, Japan:
Very good, but not as supremely fatty-lean balanced as the best versions of Nodoguro that we’ve had with Maru-san and others in the past. Still delicious.
Uni Shiso Tororo Temaki - Sea Urchin, Shiso Leaf and Grated Mountain Yam Handroll - Hokkaido, Japan:
And then we get to Maru-san’s legendary Handroll course for the evening: What makes Maru-san’s Temaki course so outstanding starts with the humble Nori (Dried Seaweed). Maru-san is obsessive about finding the best types of Dried Seaweed that has a stunning crispy-crunchy texture that never wilts!
Pair that with perfectly sweet, flawless Bafun Uni from Hokkaido, Japan (zero oceanic aftertaste), bright Spring-like Shiso Leaf, and Tororo (Grated Mountain Yam) and you have one of best bites of 2022!
Uni - Sea Urchin - Santa Barbara, U.S.A.:
A classic presentation, going back-to-back, showcasing Bafun Uni from Hokkaido, Japan previously, and now Uni (Sea Urchin) from Santa Barbara, California. There are devoted fans in both camps. I love them both. Today’s Santa Barbara Uni was thankfully near-perfect, with no oceanic aftertaste that sometimes hits Uni a bit too often.
Kinmedai - Golden Eye Snapper - Chiba, Japan:
Another lovely piece that Maru-san lightly sears with Japanese Binchotan (White Charcoal). There’s a delicate smokiness imparted here as well, and the slight searing helps to release some of the oils. Delicious!
Kinako Warabi Mochi - Pounded Bracken Flour Dessert with Toasted Soybean Powder:
We end our Omakase with a simple, satisfying Kinako Warabi Mochi, which Maru-san makes in-house by hand, pounding Bracken Flour to achieve a texture like regular Mochi (made with Rice). It’s jiggly, lightly chewy, nutty, and a satisfying ending to a great dinner.
Maru-san delivers yet another stunning Omakase Sushi Dinner at Mori Sushi. From the knife skills, to the progression, to the “hybrid” approach of opening up with a beautiful seasonal Zensai course (more akin to Kaiseki), to the fantastic Sake Menu and affable nature of Maru-san himself, Mori Sushi remains a must visit for top tier Sushi in L.A.
Mori Sushi
11500 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90064
Tel: (310) 479-3939
