A Legend Survives - The Return of the Master Class in Wonderful Sushi - Mori Sushi [Thoughts + Pics]

Maybe not the CH thread @BKeats is referring to, but:

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Thanks for the link. As much as I respect SilverJay for his in depth historical knowledge, I would have to respectfully disagree with the statement.

Sushi restaurants pretty much always offer sake (even Sukiyabashi Jiro has one single sake offering), and even the most traditional old school shops in Tokyo have one (or more) offerings even if the sake could be unmarked on the menu. Now in terms of the preference of the customer, that is also changing as even some random shops carry wine as well (even if it might not match properly). There is a youtube vlogger of sushi in Tokyo, he orders and gets sake during lunch or dinner, and he could also be starting with a beer to refresh and set his own tone and pacing for the meal. If this has actually changed in the last 15 or so years then that’s not something that’s publicized. Though it could also be certain age demographics that do not drink sake with sushi, but that could also be an inaccurate portrayal or summary.

Sushi Sho Yotsuya (and the founder’s numerous disciples who have become independent since then) serve small bites/appetizers interspersed with sushi to facilitate pairings with sake, shochu, beer (or champagne in some cases). The original Sushi Sho Yotsuya has been around since the Iron Chef competition (or a bit earlier), so that pre-dates the comment SJ made. So with that said, these points all contradict the generalization.

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I’ll add the otsumami courses at higher end sushi bars tend to be very sake friendly. Here in the US, Noz in NYC IMO is notably sake friendly and they’ve got a great sommelier for pairing assistance. I always get wasted here :disappointed:

Additionally I find the aged neta you’re starting to see more of in the US is also sake friendly IMO. I too read the myth many years ago about the no sake pairing and think there is absolutely no truth to that

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And that’s wrong, how?

I mean, I have to admit, I love me some Karelian paired with a bowl of Risalamande. It’s like a Scandinavian dessert daily-double.

And really, nothing is as comforting as a warm bowl of congee with a big overstuffed zongzi.

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Wine sommeliers that step in to do beverage pairings that include wine and sake with sushi omakase are more of a modernistic approach, I don’t think that was done until the last 10 years or so (and is more prevalent now, partly to help the sake industry and the fact that some sake distribution is intertwined with wine importers so restaurants that procure wine hit up the same distributors for the entire portfolio, a common practice amongst Michelin high end non Japanese fine dining). This is actually a welcome change for those wanting a more diverse experience with beverage pairings. The flip side of that, is now sake breweries have to come up with drinks that capture the market and brews that are more modern style (less traditional), which can be both good and bad, in order to compete with wine.

The sommeliers at the likes of Noz, Tori-En NY (the somm there is actually ex L’Effervescence Tokyo), Brooklyn Chef’s Table Brooklyn Fare, are all WSET sake certified and also in wine. But at the same time they can be limited to the portfolio they work with.

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Update 1:

To celebrate the New Year, it was time to revisit Mori Sushi and Chef-Owner Masanori “Maru” Nagano. (Note: With the pandemic, Maru-san currently only has 2 very limited seatings per night, and only a few nights a week. He currently has limited reservations so that there are only 6 guests per seating time. On this visit, we arranged it so that we were the only guests at a later seating, which felt a lot safer and added to the enjoyment.)

As we entered and sat down, Maru-san appeared from the kitchen and warmly welcomed us. We wanted to start the new year’s with one of our favorite Sake:

Tatsuriki - Nihon no Sakura (Cherry Blossoms of Japan) - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Hyogo, Japan):

morisushi2_025

We fell in love with this Sake after being introduced to it by Maru-san years ago. It’s from his hometown where he grew up in Japan. Visually one of the most unique aspects is the 24k Gold Flakes cut into the shape of Sakura (Cherry Blossoms), and as mentioned previously, they are placed by hand individually into each bottle of Nihon no Sakura(!).

This was a fantastic way to start off the evening. The first sip reminded me immediately as to why it’s one of my favorites, there’s a gentle round, flavorful front palate. A delicate florality, smoothness and a clean finish. And it was a great pairing with our opening dishes. :blush:

Shirako - Cod Milt (Hokkaido, Japan):

As amiable as always, Maru-san chatted about how this was a great time of year for Shirako from Hokkaido. This was clean, lightly sweet, silky.

(Zensai Course) Uchiwa Ebi (Fan Lobster); Kani Kazunoko (Crab with Herring Roe); Ginnan (Fried Ginkgo Nuts); Toro to Takuan no Kunsei (Smoked Fatty Tuna Belly, Smoked Pickled Daikon); Kamaboko (Fish Cakes); Umaki (Freshwater Eel with Egg); Kuromame to Kuri (Black Beans and Chestnut):

As usual, one of the highlights of a stellar Omakase meal from Maru-san at Mori Sushi. Today’s Zensai Course reflects the season we’re in, and Maru-san decided to do a slight hybrid Osechi (or Japanese New Year’s cuisine).

Uchiwa Ebi (Fan Lobster):

Visually stunning and a rare offering at local restaurants, the Uchiwa Ebi is a type of Lobster. More delicate and tender than regular Lobster, it had a wonderful light (inherent) sweetness.

Kani Kazunoko (Crab with Herring Roe):

Kazunoko (Herring Roe) is traditionally eaten at New Year’s in Japan, and Maru-san had some excellent Kazunoko for this bite, to help us celebrate the New Year’s as well. Crunchy, lively and a great textural contrast to the soft, lightly sweet Crab meat. :blush:

Ginnan (Ginkgo Nuts):

Outstanding! Perfectly fried Ginnan (Ginkgo Nuts), it had an incredible savory, nuttiness with just a lovely tinge of bitterness to balance out the flavors. Highlight!

Toro to Takuan no Kunsei (Smoked Fatty Tuna Belly, Smoked Pickled Daikon):

Absurd. This is slowly becoming one of Maru-san’s underrated highlights. The gentle smokiness pervades every bite of to the Takuan (Pickled Daikon Radish), so you get this smoky, lightly crunchy, intense earthiness. But it gets better: The same rich, gentle smokiness infuses into every bit of the Toro (Fatty Tuna Belly) and you get a stunning light fatty-lean mouthfeel, and you question if this is actually Tuna or a piece of delicious fatty Beef or Pork instead. :heart:

Kamaboko (Fish Cakes):

Another common sighting for Osechi Ryori (Japanese New Year’s cuisine), Maru-san’s Housemade Kamaboko adds to the celebratory nature and cheerfulness of this seasonal opening plate.

Umaki (Freshwater Eel with Egg) to Yamamomo (Japanese Mountain Peach):

As lovely as our previous visit! Juicy Rolled Omelette stuffed with Unagi (Japanese Freshwater Eel).

Kuromame to Kuri (Japanese Black Bean with Chestnut):

More aspects of Osechi Ryori appear here, and Maru-san’s Kuromame (Japanese Black Bean) is gorgeously topped with 24k Gold Flakes. Normally I don’t care much for restaurants throwing around 24k Gold Flakes, but in this case, it’s fitting for celebrating the New Year. The Stewed Black Beans are sweet and earthy, but it’s the Coffee-Infused Chestnut that’s the surprise. Kuri (Chestnut) is wonderful snack we enjoy in Japan, but Maru-san decides to add his own touch to the Kuri, infusing it with Coffee, for a more “grown-up”, less sweet taste. Delicious. :slight_smile:

Somehow the bottle of Nihon no Sakura Daiginjo Sake was empty after the Zensai course(!), so what to do? We asked Maru-san for a recommendation and he disappeared for a few minutes before returning with…

Kokuryu - Ishidaya - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Fukui, Japan):

Stunning. The multiple boxes alone reflected the specialness of this Sake. While Sake aficionados have heard of Kokuryu (“Black Dragon”), I’ve never heard of this “Ishidaya” bottle. Maru-san explains that Kokuryu releases 2 Limited Edition Bottlings, named after their Founder, Ishidaya Nizaemon. This bottle is “Ishidaya” (the Founder’s last name), and the 2nd Limited Edition bottle is “Nizaemon” (his first name).

Opening up the box, the inside packaging is just as stunning, wrapped in a cloth interior.

So what does this rare, limited edition Sake taste like? It’s immediately more round and fuller than the Tatsuriki - Nihon no Sakura Sake (that I adore). It’s a bit bigger, “heavier” as well. Whereas Nihon no Sakura and certain other standout Sake have a lightness to them, this mouthfeel and taste on the palate feels like it has a certain weight to it, but it’s not “super rich” (nor overwhelming). There’s a slight vegetal aspect(!), and it finishes ultra clean. Very unique and delicious! :heart:

Ozoni (Japanese New Year’s Mochi Soup):

Continuing to welcome us into the New Year, Maru-san serves his version of Ozoni, a Mochi Soup traditionally enjoyed during Japanese New Year’s. :slight_smile: The Mochi (Pounded Rice) is ultra soft and lightly chewy, the Housemade Dashi Broth is comforting and warming, the Turnip, Carrot and Avocado just round things out. Delicious!

Tai no Kobujime - Wild Red Snapper wrapped in Konbu - Kochi, Japan:

As always, a nice way to start the procession of Nigiri Sushi. Maru-san marinates the Tai in Konbu (Kelp). It’s light, with a fragile meatiness.

Hotate - Scallop - Hokkaido, Japan:

There’s really nothing like fresh, in-season Scallops from Hokkaido, Japan. Silky, exquisite, beautiful mouthfeel. The Nikiri Sauce that Maru-san uses just hits my palate perfectly. It’s not too saline, not too sweet, just a balanced pleasing quality that accentuates each piece (when used), without overpowering. So good! :heart:

Mizu Tako - Mizu Octopus - Aomori, Japan:

Clean, light, refreshing, but with an enjoyable chew. It awakens your palate and engages you before the rest of the lineup that’s more tender.

We had a wonderful time hearing from Maru-san and sharing stories, and before we knew it, the bottle of Ishidaya was empty. Uh oh. That went way too fast. :sweat_smile:

At this point, Maru-san recommended another bottle that we had never tried before:

Maboroshi Kurobako - Junmai Daiginjo Genshu Sake (Hiroshima, Japan):

Made by Nakao Brewery, with Yamada Nishiki Rice (many consider it the best Sake Rice), it uses a rare Apple Yeast to develop this Sake. Another beautiful box and package, but more importantly, how was the taste?

Richer, sweeter, fruity. There was definitely an almost apple or melon note (but not artificial), just this wonderful fruit note that hits the front and mid palate. It’s the roundest of all the Sake we’ve tried so far this evening, and it finishes clean as well. So enjoyable to drink on its own, and it paired well with the next few courses. Another standout Sake. :heart: (@BradFord @ColinMorey @ipsedixit @A5KOBE and all)

Aji - Horse Mackerel - Nagasaki, Japan:

The Aji on this evening’s visit isn’t as bold and rich as some versions of Horse Mackerel can be, but it was still very good. And as before, Maru-san’s Sushi shows off that focus on the importance and sourcing for the Shari (Sushi Rice). You can truly taste every grain, it’s not overly mushy, nor too dry. It’s also not overly vinegared like some places as well. This remains our favorite Shari in the city. :blush:

Kue - Longtooth Grouper - Kyushu, Japan:

I don’t remember ever having Kue (Longtooth Grouper) before, so this was a nice treat. There’s a meaty, almost gelatinous quality to the Fish, but it’s quite delicate (in line with Tai (Sea Bream) perhaps). But then pairing it with the Maboroshi Kurobako Junmai Daiginjo Genshu Sake… stunning! :open_mouth: It was a flawless pairing and both the Sake and the Sushi were enhanced by this. Wow. :heart:

Maguro Zuke - Wild Bluefin Tuna - North Carolina, U.S.A.:

This lightly marinated Maguro was delicious. Tender, balanced seasoning, still lean, but still tasting like it had higher marbling content than it actually had.

Toro Sawara - Spanish Mackerel Belly - Mie, Japan:

Buttery. Luscious. Out of control! We’re in the height of the season for Toro Sawara according to Maru-san, and judging by the taste of this, I would agree. One of the highlights of the meal! :heart: :heart: :heart:

Kan Buri - Premium Adult Yellowtail - Toyama, Japan:

To understand how masterfully presented and coursed out our meal was, Toro Sawara normally would be the highlight of any regular Sushi meal, but then for Maru-san to present this back-to-back with Kan Buri (Premium Adult Yellowtail) that’s also in prime season right now (Winter), just reflects upon a great Itamae’s understanding of the procession of the lineup and taste.

Whereas the Toro Sawara was all sorts of out of control buttery decadence, the Kan Buri was this controlled, focused bite of concentrated glory! It was lush, and pleasing and had fattiness, but it was all pinpoint accurate, whereas Toro Sawara was just out of control and “wide” in its flavor explosion if that makes sense. Outstanding! :heart: :heart: :heart: Don’t miss this! (@ipsedixit @ColinMorey @Mr_Happy @paranoidgarliclover @A5KOBE and all)

Nanbu Bijin - Daiginjo Sake (Iwate, Japan):

The Sake was flowing far too easily and we had to slow things down a little bit, so for the next bottle we decided to try their Nambu Bijin (Southern Beauty) Daiginjo Sake. I’ve been a fan of their Ginjo, but had never tried their Daiginjo bottle before. This was fine. It’s a quality, good Sake, but after the previous 3 epic Sake bottles, it was hard for this affordable, standard release to compete. But we’d be glad to order it again in the future (just as the opener perhaps). :slight_smile:

Iwashi - Sardines (Aged 3 Days) - Hokkaido, Japan:

Today’s Iwashi (Sardines) were aged 3 days by Maru-san before serving. This is just outstanding Hikarimono (Silver Skinned Fish), and Maru-san’s Iwashi has consistently been the best in the city. Today’s aged Iwashi doesn’t eclipse the fatty, intense version we had a few years ago from Maru-san as well, but it’s still outstanding.

Kamasu - Barracuda - Oita, Japan:

Maru-san lightly grills the outer skin of the Kamasu (Barracuda) before serving. The result is lightly smoky, and the quick grilling brings out the fattiness and the caramelization adds even more flavor to the fish. :heart:

Ohtoro - Fattiest Tuna Belly - North Carolina, U.S.A.:

Years ago, having Ohtoro was the highlight of my Sushi meals, being so fatty and decadent, it was an easy choice. These days, I still enjoy it, but the other types of Fish with unique flavors shine more. The Ohtoro was really buttery and fatty and tasty (there was one tiny piece of gristle, but it was otherwise flawless). Tasty!

Saba - Mackerel - Saga, Japan:

Outstanding! Another great fish that sings in Winter, Maru-san mentions this year’s Saba is his favorite for the season. Taking a bite, you understand why: Beautifully balanced inherent oiliness, gently oceanic (in a good way), rich, bold. Another highlight of the evening! :heart: :heart:

Kuruma Ebi - Japanese Tiger Prawn - Kagoshima, Japan:

While I’m always a fan of Live Sweet Shrimp and its distinct texture, a great Kuruma Ebi (cooked) can shine in its own right. Maru-san’s Kuruma Ebi on this evening was one of the best I’ve had in recent memory. There’s an intense, distinct natural sweetness in the Shrimp meat, and even though it wasn’t alive and just dispatched in front of us, there was zero brininess. Just a clean, plump, tender meatiness. :heart:

Nodoguro - “Blackthroat Sea Perch” - Toyama, Japan:

In chatting about various Fish and all things Sushi, one thing Maru-san brought up again on this visit is that he doesn’t agree with the English naming of Nodoguro as “Blackthroat Sea Perch”, but like many U.S. restaurants adopting certain names even if they don’t actually reflect the Fish, it’s become more prevalent. Back to the Nodoguro itself:

Highlight of the meal! :heart: :heart: :heart:

It has so much balanced, buttery flavors. It’s fatty, but not out of control like Ohtoro. It’s got a lip-smacking buttery quality, but it just skates the line of keeping things in control. And it’s got a richer, more complex flavor than Ohtoro, but still has a delicate quality so as to not veer into the heavy, oily spectrum of Fish (like Mackerel or Kohada (Gizzard Shad)). This is one of the best Nodoguro Sushi we’ve ever had. :heart: :blush: (@Mr_Meatballs @BradFord @ipsedixit and all)

Uni to Tsukune Imo Temaki - Sea Urchin (Santa Barbara, U.S.A.) with Japanese Mountain Yam Handroll:

Those new to Mori Sushi and Maru-san may not know, but the end of the evening Handroll is something to be celebrated. While the contents will always be stellar, in this case, super bright, vibrant, sweet Santa Barbara Uni (Sea Urchin) topped with Tsukune Imo (Japanese Mountain Yam) and Shiso Leaf, it’s the Nori (Seaweed) wrapper that is the star (and always has been):

Shatteringly crispy Nori (Seaweed) that is bursting with real umami. It greatly enhances every single bite and is yet another highlight. :heart:

We reached the end of the Omakase at this point, but Maru-san asked if we had any special requests or wanted any additional rounds of Sushi. I was so full, but we all wanted to enjoy just a few more things…

Suntory Premium Malt’s Beer (Draft) (Japan):

While Mori Sushi has a few bottles of Japanese Beer on the menu, they have only 1 Beer on Draft: Suntory’s The Premium Malt’s Beer, imported from Japan. It is crisp, medium-bodied, malty and balanced. Not overly hoppy, not super dark and still easy drinking.

(Round 2) Buri - Adult Yellowtail - Toyama, Japan:

Stupid good. Still so focused and delicious. It’s got this clean, luxurious quality to this 2nd piece. :heart:

(Round 2) Nodoguro - “Blackthroat Sea Perch” - Toyama, Japan:

Absurd. I wish I could’ve had another piece after this, that’s how good it was! :blush: Still as fatty, sumptuous as the first round. It has that best balance of fat and lean, all the elements coming together in perfect harmony here. :heart:

Shiratama Zensai (Japanese Azuki Red Beans with Mochi Dessert):

And we finished our meal with the most fitting ending: Shiratama Zensai, a traditional Japanese Dessert made with Azuki Red Beans and little Mochi Balls (Pounded Rice). This was lightly sweet (not overly so), the Mochi was pliant and so soft and fluffy.

Mori Sushi, under the guidance of Chef-Owner Masanori “Maru” Nagano, continues to be such a delight. We’re glad to see it survive Year 2 of the pandemic, but we can’t imagine how hard it must be, since an Omakase Sushi experience is so intimate and it doesn’t hold up at all for Takeout. While Mori Sushi is operating with a scaled down crew these days (just Maru-san, no assistant chefs(!), and 1 main server), it hasn’t diminished the Omakase Sushi experience. In fact, our dinner this evening was probably one of the best Omakase dinners we’ve had at Mori Sushi ever.

From the exquisite preparation and care Maru-san puts in to the opening Zensai Course, to celebrate and reflect the season (each little bite took just as much effort as the more “showy” courses), to the outstanding Shari (Sushi Rice) to the quality and preparation and knife cutting of the seafood, to the best Sake menu at a Sushi-ya in the city, and Maru-san’s welcoming, amiable character, Mori Sushi remains at the top of the City of Angels.

Mori Sushi
11500 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90064
Tel: (310) 479-3939

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Spectacular report. Looks like an excellent meal to celebrate the New Year with lots of auspicious ingredients! Also, I love how the smoked toro mimics the iburigakko but contrasts in texture. So smart by Maru-san. I’m really overdue for a return! Thanks for the inspiration.

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This looks amazing. Will put it at the top of our “whenever we decide to go back out” list.

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I’m not sure I’ve ever had scallop with this sauce.

4 bottles of sake? Sounds and looks like an awesome way to start off the new year.

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Hi @BradFord ,

Thanks! :slight_smile: We definitely appreciated that Maru-san incorporated the Osechi / New Year’s ingredients and nods in this meal. :slight_smile:

Hope you have a great meal when you make it back out here. Enjoy. :slight_smile:

Thanks @Mr_Meatballs . Definitely a nice dinner out. Yah we originally weren’t going out, but managed to find a day where we were the only guests in the restaurant (for a later reservation). And with only 2 Maru-san and his one server working (both fully vaccinated) we felt more at ease. Hope this subsides soon so you can make it out there. :slight_smile:

Hi @js76wisco ,

Yah it worked beautifully, but normally Maru-san serves it with sea salt and citrus.

4 bottles of Sake? Yes. We maybe overcompensated for not having been dining out nor ordering much Sake over the pandemic. We wanted to support the Sake industry when possible. They were fantastic bottles. :wink: Cheers!

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Our very own @Chowseeker1999 is like a fish out of water when it comes to quality spirits. :smiley:

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Great report! That otoro dear near looks like wagyu beef. Everything looks flawlessly executed and delicious.

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Hi @A5KOBE ,

Thanks. :slight_smile: It was one of the best meals so far with Maru-san. It feels like he’s only improving over time (which is great).

It was time for another visit to Mori Sushi. As before, Chef-Owner Masanori “Maru” Nagano greets us warmly and delivered another fantastic Omakase meal.

Tatsuriki - Nihon no Sakura (Cherry Blossoms of Japan) - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Hyogo, Japan):

It’s becoming a tradition at this point: Mori Sushi visit? Must order a bottle of Tatsuriki Nihon no Sakura (Cherry Blossoms of Japan) Sake. :slight_smile: As before, it’s celebratory, so smooth and easy to drink. Our friend who tried it for the first time on this visit said it was “like the purest water”. :slight_smile: It was an excellent pairing with our opening courses, especially the Zensai section.

Shungiku (Chrysanthemum Greens / Crown Daisy) with 3 Types of Sesame Seeds:

The opening bite was a beautifully prepared simmered Shungiku (Crown Daisy / Chrysanthemum Greens) in a Housemade Dashi (fantastic!) with 3 types of Sesame Seeds that added a nice spectrum of nuttiness.

(Zensai Course) Uchiwa Ebi (Fan Lobster); Awabi Kimo (Abalone Liver); Hotaru Ika (Firefly Squid); Takenoko (Young Bamboo); Toro to Takuan no Kunsei (Smoked Fatty Tuna Belly, Smoked Pickled Daikon); Sayori (Japanese Halfbeak) Fried Skin & Bones; Shin Shoga (New Ginger (Seasonal)):

Uchiwa Ebi - Fan Lobster (Kyushu, Japan):

We enjoyed the Uchiwa Ebi (Fan Lobster) we got last time with Maru-san, but this evening’s Uchiwa Ebi was even better(!). More supple, inherently sweeter than the last one, just excellent!

Awabi Kimo (Abalone Liver):

I don’t know what mad culinary skills Maru-san applies here, but the Awabi Kimo (Abalone Liver) tastes like the most incredible pure Abalone meat (not organ meat) that you’ve ever tasted! More tender than regular Abalone, a gorgeous infusion of a savory-lightly sweet Dashi, and a flawless pairing with the Tatsuriki Nihon no Sakura Sake! :heart:

Hotaru Ika (Firefly Squid):

The Hotaru Ika (Firefly Squid) was even better! Supple, with a very gentle chew, but so tender.

Fried Sayori (Japanese Halfbeak) Skin & Bones:

Maru-san deep fried the Sayori bones to the point of being a delicious edible crunchy snack! The lovely fish oils from the Japanese Halfbeak Skin deep-fried was wonderful on its own, but even better with the Sake.

Takenoko - Young Bamboo:

Maru-san also presented fresh Takenoko, what he said was the season’s best Young Bamboo. Gently cooked in a different Housemade Dashi, this was so good! Lightly earthy, tender, there was a vegetal sweetness that matched the Dashi’s light savory qualities.

Toro to Takuan no Kunsei (Smoked Fatty Tuna Belly, Smoked Pickled Daikon):

This is becoming a signature item on Maru-san’s menu, part of his Zensai course the last few times we’ve visited. As before, Maru-san uses Apple Wood to smoke the Toro (Fatty Tuna Belly) and Takuan (Pickled Daikon Radish) for hours, before it’s ready to serve.

The Takuan no Kunsei (Smoked Pickled Daikon Radish) was as pleasing as before, an enticing smokiness that accentuates the Takuan’s crunchy, sweet Radish flavors.

The Toro no Kunsei (Smoked Fatty Tuna Belly) was absurd. Deep, rich smokiness, luscious Fatty Tuna Belly. And a flawless pairing with the Tatsuriki Sake! :heart: :heart: (@BradFord @A5KOBE @Sgee @ipsedixit and all!)

Shin Shoga (Young Ginger):

A surprise offering on the Zensai course, I appreciate that Maru-san was showcasing what was fresh for the season. The Shin Shoga (Young Ginger) was something he just got in, and he was pleased by the fresh vibrancy of it. It was cooked in sweet liquid, topped with Yuzu citrus zest. Really good!

Steamed Abalone Soup:

And while we were served the Awabi Kimo (Abalone Liver) for the opening Zensai course, next arrived the actual Steamed Abalone itself served in a Housemade Dashi Soup. Maru-san is a master of flavors, and here the Steamed Abalone is expertly cooked and presented to maximize its inherent flavors. Not only is it truly perfectly cooked through (so tender, a gentle bite, silky), but the Dashi Broth was simply nourishing. :blush: It felt like your soul was being cared for as you were drinking this Soup.

Koshi no Kanbai - Kinmuku - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Niigata, Japan):

Maru-san smiles as we order this next bottle of Koshi no Kanbai “Kinmuku” Junmai Daiginjo Sake. He confides it is his favorite Sake lineup. We’ve always enjoyed Koshi no Kanbai ever since we first tried it years ago, interestingly enough, at Mori Sushi. :slight_smile: The Kinmuku is one of their top of the line bottles, it is “heavier” than the Tatsuriki Nihon no Sakura, but not in a bad way. It’s rounder, more robust, there’s a real gentle fruitiness (apples, maybe pears or melon), but the surprise is the rice flavors that come through(!). It’s gentle, subtle, but present. Lovely. :slight_smile:

Tai no Kobujime - Wild Red Snapper wrapped in Konbu - Oita, Japan:

Always a great starter for the Nigiri courses. Gentle, pleasant, light meatiness.

Hotate - Scallop - Hokkaido, Japan:

Ridiculous.

Hokkaido’s best Scallops always impress, but this evening’s Scallops were some of the best I’ve had in recent memory. Silky, tender, just enough body to stand up to the bite. Super bright and fresh. There’s a real purity. I was so tempted to order another one immediately after finishing that bite. It was that good! :blush: :heart: (@paranoidgarliclover @Starch @BradFord and all)

Of course, the unsung star of each piece of Sushi we had as usual was Maru-san’s Shari (Sushi Rice). Maru-san (continuing the tradition and obsessiveness of Mori Sushi’s original owner, Mori Onodera) continues to go to great lengths to source the right Sushi Rice for his offerings. Originally he worked with a farm in California to grow and provide a specific Rice just for Mori Sushi(!), he’s now working with a farm in Japan to source a special blend of Sasanishiki and Koshihikari Rice, just for his restaurant. Wow! :open_mouth:

And it really makes a difference. You can taste and appreciate the individual grains of Rice, there’s just the right structure and density. It’s not overcooked, nor too mushy, nor too dry like some places around town.

Mizudako - Water Octopus - Hokkaido, Japan:

Very good! Soft, gentle chewiness, but slippery and quite tender.

Hata - Grouper - Mie, Japan:

I’ve enjoyed trying Hata (Grouper). It’s got a surprising meatiness, some chew, but not in a “rubbery” way. It’s just a meatier Fish, clean, more like a great White Fish in terms of flavor spectrum.

Sayori - Japanese Halfbeak - Tottori, Japan:

And while we previously got the Sayori Skin and Bones deep-fried (delicious!), Maru-san presented us with the Sayori meat in this Sushi course. Just a delicious, light oiliness (inherent), it’s one of my favorites, and tonight’s offering was excellent! :blush:

Aka Amadai - Red Tilefish - Miyazaki, Japan:

Maru-san lightly “sears” the Aka Amadai (Red Tilefish), and the result is a subtle smokiness giving way to this perfectly balanced, malleable, lightly oily, flavorful Fish. Outstanding! :heart:

Sawara - Spanish Mackerel - Hokkaido, Japan:

The progression is fantastic, and now comes Sawara (Spanish Mackerel), another highlight on this evening. A lovely oiliness, delicate brininess, and it paired wonderfully with the Koshi no Kanbai Kinmuku! :heart:

Maguro Zuke - Bluefin Tuna - North Carolina, U.S.A.:

Maguro (Bluefin Tuna) can really be hit-or-miss depending on the sourcing and the itamae preparing it. Sometimes it can taste bland, or uninspired, or you can have stunning preparations like this evening’s Maguro Zuke, where Maru-san marinates the Maguro in his special blend of Shoyu (Soy Sauce). And the sourcing from North Carolina (which is a surprise) continues to delight. This is some of the best Maguro Zuke I’ve had in years! One of the highlights of the evening! :heart: :heart: (@BradFord @ipsedixit @js76wisco and all)

Sakura Buri - Seasonal Adult Yellowtail - Mie, Japan:

But perhaps the most stunning bite this evening would have to go to the Sakura Buri (Special Variation of Adult Yellowtail). I’m always a fan of Yellowtail in all its various forms, but Buri is when its caught and served fully grown. This special Sakura Buri was simply incredible: Fatty, but not too fatty. There was a balance with the lean, a touch lighter than you’d expect Buri to be. Lush, but not overwhelming, incredible mouthfeel. Highlight of the evening! :heart: :heart: :heart:

Masu - Ocean Trout - Tasmania:

Another excellent bite! This current portion of our Omakase course featured this incredible lineup of Fish that were slightly fatty, but not overly so. The Masu (Ocean Trout) would’ve been another highlight, but being put right after the stunning Buri just overshadowed the next piece.

Kokuryu (Black Dragon) - Hachijuhachigo (Number 88) - Daiginjo Sake (Fukui, Japan):

Sake fans might be familiar with Kokuryu (Black Dragon). They have some excellent bottles. :slight_smile: However, on this night, as we were considering what to get for a 3rd bottle of Sake, Maru-san gets a glint in his eye, and mentions he just got in a Limited Edition bottle from Kokuryu called Hachijuhachigo, which means “Number 88.” I’ve never heard of this before. I was excited.

This was pretty ridiculous. It was very clean, crisp, dryer than the Koshi no Kanbai Kinmuku, so that was a nice change for this final part of the Omakase course. Was it the best Sake I’ve ever had? No. But it was pretty tasty and a worthwhile try. :slight_smile:

Kamasu - Baby Barracuda - Nagasaki, Japan:

I loved the gentle smokiness, this turned out to be a nice contrast to the previous few Fish, and helped adjust our palate for the next few.

Ohtoro - Fattiest Tuna Belly - North Carolina, U.S.A.:

Incredibly fatty and decadent. A fine example of one of the most popular Sushi offerings. Truly melt in your mouth. :blush:

Saba - Mackerel - Miyazaki, Japan:

Flawless. Maru-san really draws out the best flavors from Hikarimono (Silver-Skinned Fish). Saba (Mackerel) can sometimes get out of control, unbalanced at lesser skilled places. But in the hands of Maru-san, the preparation and final taste just hits a pinnacle. A controlled, deep complex oiliness (inherent), salinity in check, lovely brininess, and a fantastic pairing with the Limited Edition Kokuryu Hachijuhachigo Sake! :heart: :heart: (@BradFord @A5KOBE )

Shiro Ebi - Baby White Shrimp - Toyama, Japan:

During Spring, I always look forward to Shiro Ebi (Baby White Shrimp), and Maru-san always finds a good source when it’s in season. Each piece of this Shiro Ebi nigiri is made up of a bunch of tiny Baby White Shrimp. It’s like a far more delicate, pliant, silky Sweet Shrimp. Another highlight of the evening! :heart:

Nodoguro - Blackthroat Sea Perch - Shimane, Japan:

Very good, but not as supremely fatty-lean balanced as the best versions of Nodoguro that we’ve had with Maru-san and others in the past. Still delicious. :slight_smile:

Uni Shiso Tororo Temaki - Sea Urchin, Shiso Leaf and Grated Mountain Yam Handroll - Hokkaido, Japan:

And then we get to Maru-san’s legendary Handroll course for the evening: What makes Maru-san’s Temaki course so outstanding starts with the humble Nori (Dried Seaweed). Maru-san is obsessive about finding the best types of Dried Seaweed that has a stunning crispy-crunchy texture that never wilts! :open_mouth:

Pair that with perfectly sweet, flawless Bafun Uni from Hokkaido, Japan (zero oceanic aftertaste), bright Spring-like Shiso Leaf, and Tororo (Grated Mountain Yam) and you have one of best bites of 2022! :heart:

Uni - Sea Urchin - Santa Barbara, U.S.A.:

A classic presentation, going back-to-back, showcasing Bafun Uni from Hokkaido, Japan previously, and now Uni (Sea Urchin) from Santa Barbara, California. There are devoted fans in both camps. I love them both. :blush: Today’s Santa Barbara Uni was thankfully near-perfect, with no oceanic aftertaste that sometimes hits Uni a bit too often.

Kinmedai - Golden Eye Snapper - Chiba, Japan:

Another lovely piece that Maru-san lightly sears with Japanese Binchotan (White Charcoal). There’s a delicate smokiness imparted here as well, and the slight searing helps to release some of the oils. Delicious! :heart:

Kinako Warabi Mochi - Pounded Bracken Flour Dessert with Toasted Soybean Powder:

We end our Omakase with a simple, satisfying Kinako Warabi Mochi, which Maru-san makes in-house by hand, pounding Bracken Flour to achieve a texture like regular Mochi (made with Rice). It’s jiggly, lightly chewy, nutty, and a satisfying ending to a great dinner. :slight_smile:

Maru-san delivers yet another stunning Omakase Sushi Dinner at Mori Sushi. From the knife skills, to the progression, to the “hybrid” approach of opening up with a beautiful seasonal Zensai course (more akin to Kaiseki), to the fantastic Sake Menu and affable nature of Maru-san himself, Mori Sushi remains a must visit for top tier Sushi in L.A.

Mori Sushi
11500 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90064
Tel: (310) 479-3939

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Wow

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Awesome report @Chowseeker1999 ! Looks like a meal full of hits.

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Great report and looks like a really nice presentation of Spring! Great sake, too.

Opening with a clean and unfussy dashi presentation, and then the abalone owan with what looks like sakura no shiozuke and aonori, really nice!

I love the sound of how the nigiri progressed in texture, starting with some varied chew and gentle bounce:

  • Tai no konbujime (which may very well be my favorite neta to start a progression of nigiri, for its slightly “dry” texture and showcasing of clean taste, umami that builds, and therefore allowing to focus on the rice’s texture. Speaking of rice’s texture, you really get that impact with the next piece).
  • Hotategai
  • Mizudako
  • Hata
  • Sayori

This sounds and looks really nice! Saba when prepared well is one of my favorite neta.

This sounds quite texturally sophisticated; it all rides or dies on the crispness of the nori. The uni and tororo provide the “neba” (sliminess, for lack of a better term), and then the shiso’s fresh, herbal bite and the nori’s crunch serve as a foil. With lesser quality nori and in lesser hands, this dish could easily become a failure texturally, so this almost seems like a way to show the precedence of the nori’s crispiness. Of course the nebaneba texture by itself can be a great thing (especially as an opener, like maguro yamakake) but just saying that if one attempts to do a temaki with a generous amount of nebaneba filling such as here, then it better have crunchy nori or else it’ll eat all messily. I also think that Hokkaido bafun uni in particular is the right call here to work with nori, and the sweet muraksaki uni from Santa Barbara has more impact in nigiri for the next course. Impressive!

Respect! Sounds like Maru-san does a lot of preparation himself and that’s really impressive.

Your reports are making me think that Mori Sushi may be serving the most sophisticated sushi meals in LA…not just about luxury ingredients, but rather about so much else. I’ll have to return soon!

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Thanks @A5KOBE ! :slight_smile: It really was yet another spectacular meal. Maru-san is just a wonderful itamae.