Update 1:
To celebrate the New Year, it was time to revisit Mori Sushi and Chef-Owner Masanori “Maru” Nagano. (Note: With the pandemic, Maru-san currently only has 2 very limited seatings per night, and only a few nights a week. He currently has limited reservations so that there are only 6 guests per seating time. On this visit, we arranged it so that we were the only guests at a later seating, which felt a lot safer and added to the enjoyment.)
As we entered and sat down, Maru-san appeared from the kitchen and warmly welcomed us. We wanted to start the new year’s with one of our favorite Sake:
Tatsuriki - Nihon no Sakura (Cherry Blossoms of Japan) - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Hyogo, Japan):
We fell in love with this Sake after being introduced to it by Maru-san years ago. It’s from his hometown where he grew up in Japan. Visually one of the most unique aspects is the 24k Gold Flakes cut into the shape of Sakura (Cherry Blossoms), and as mentioned previously, they are placed by hand individually into each bottle of Nihon no Sakura(!).
This was a fantastic way to start off the evening. The first sip reminded me immediately as to why it’s one of my favorites, there’s a gentle round, flavorful front palate. A delicate florality, smoothness and a clean finish. And it was a great pairing with our opening dishes. 
Shirako - Cod Milt (Hokkaido, Japan):
As amiable as always, Maru-san chatted about how this was a great time of year for Shirako from Hokkaido. This was clean, lightly sweet, silky.
(Zensai Course) Uchiwa Ebi (Fan Lobster); Kani Kazunoko (Crab with Herring Roe); Ginnan (Fried Ginkgo Nuts); Toro to Takuan no Kunsei (Smoked Fatty Tuna Belly, Smoked Pickled Daikon); Kamaboko (Fish Cakes); Umaki (Freshwater Eel with Egg); Kuromame to Kuri (Black Beans and Chestnut):
As usual, one of the highlights of a stellar Omakase meal from Maru-san at Mori Sushi. Today’s Zensai Course reflects the season we’re in, and Maru-san decided to do a slight hybrid Osechi (or Japanese New Year’s cuisine).
Uchiwa Ebi (Fan Lobster):
Visually stunning and a rare offering at local restaurants, the Uchiwa Ebi is a type of Lobster. More delicate and tender than regular Lobster, it had a wonderful light (inherent) sweetness.
Kani Kazunoko (Crab with Herring Roe):
Kazunoko (Herring Roe) is traditionally eaten at New Year’s in Japan, and Maru-san had some excellent Kazunoko for this bite, to help us celebrate the New Year’s as well. Crunchy, lively and a great textural contrast to the soft, lightly sweet Crab meat.
Ginnan (Ginkgo Nuts):
Outstanding! Perfectly fried Ginnan (Ginkgo Nuts), it had an incredible savory, nuttiness with just a lovely tinge of bitterness to balance out the flavors. Highlight!
Toro to Takuan no Kunsei (Smoked Fatty Tuna Belly, Smoked Pickled Daikon):
Absurd. This is slowly becoming one of Maru-san’s underrated highlights. The gentle smokiness pervades every bite of to the Takuan (Pickled Daikon Radish), so you get this smoky, lightly crunchy, intense earthiness. But it gets better: The same rich, gentle smokiness infuses into every bit of the Toro (Fatty Tuna Belly) and you get a stunning light fatty-lean mouthfeel, and you question if this is actually Tuna or a piece of delicious fatty Beef or Pork instead. 
Kamaboko (Fish Cakes):
Another common sighting for Osechi Ryori (Japanese New Year’s cuisine), Maru-san’s Housemade Kamaboko adds to the celebratory nature and cheerfulness of this seasonal opening plate.
Umaki (Freshwater Eel with Egg) to Yamamomo (Japanese Mountain Peach):
As lovely as our previous visit! Juicy Rolled Omelette stuffed with Unagi (Japanese Freshwater Eel).
Kuromame to Kuri (Japanese Black Bean with Chestnut):
More aspects of Osechi Ryori appear here, and Maru-san’s Kuromame (Japanese Black Bean) is gorgeously topped with 24k Gold Flakes. Normally I don’t care much for restaurants throwing around 24k Gold Flakes, but in this case, it’s fitting for celebrating the New Year. The Stewed Black Beans are sweet and earthy, but it’s the Coffee-Infused Chestnut that’s the surprise. Kuri (Chestnut) is wonderful snack we enjoy in Japan, but Maru-san decides to add his own touch to the Kuri, infusing it with Coffee, for a more “grown-up”, less sweet taste. Delicious. 
Somehow the bottle of Nihon no Sakura Daiginjo Sake was empty after the Zensai course(!), so what to do? We asked Maru-san for a recommendation and he disappeared for a few minutes before returning with…
Kokuryu - Ishidaya - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Fukui, Japan):
Stunning. The multiple boxes alone reflected the specialness of this Sake. While Sake aficionados have heard of Kokuryu (“Black Dragon”), I’ve never heard of this “Ishidaya” bottle. Maru-san explains that Kokuryu releases 2 Limited Edition Bottlings, named after their Founder, Ishidaya Nizaemon. This bottle is “Ishidaya” (the Founder’s last name), and the 2nd Limited Edition bottle is “Nizaemon” (his first name).
Opening up the box, the inside packaging is just as stunning, wrapped in a cloth interior.
So what does this rare, limited edition Sake taste like? It’s immediately more round and fuller than the Tatsuriki - Nihon no Sakura Sake (that I adore). It’s a bit bigger, “heavier” as well. Whereas Nihon no Sakura and certain other standout Sake have a lightness to them, this mouthfeel and taste on the palate feels like it has a certain weight to it, but it’s not “super rich” (nor overwhelming). There’s a slight vegetal aspect(!), and it finishes ultra clean. Very unique and delicious!
Ozoni (Japanese New Year’s Mochi Soup):
Continuing to welcome us into the New Year, Maru-san serves his version of Ozoni, a Mochi Soup traditionally enjoyed during Japanese New Year’s. The Mochi (Pounded Rice) is ultra soft and lightly chewy, the Housemade Dashi Broth is comforting and warming, the Turnip, Carrot and Avocado just round things out. Delicious!
Tai no Kobujime - Wild Red Snapper wrapped in Konbu - Kochi, Japan:
As always, a nice way to start the procession of Nigiri Sushi. Maru-san marinates the Tai in Konbu (Kelp). It’s light, with a fragile meatiness.
Hotate - Scallop - Hokkaido, Japan:
There’s really nothing like fresh, in-season Scallops from Hokkaido, Japan. Silky, exquisite, beautiful mouthfeel. The Nikiri Sauce that Maru-san uses just hits my palate perfectly. It’s not too saline, not too sweet, just a balanced pleasing quality that accentuates each piece (when used), without overpowering. So good!
Mizu Tako - Mizu Octopus - Aomori, Japan:
Clean, light, refreshing, but with an enjoyable chew. It awakens your palate and engages you before the rest of the lineup that’s more tender.
We had a wonderful time hearing from Maru-san and sharing stories, and before we knew it, the bottle of Ishidaya was empty. Uh oh. That went way too fast. 
At this point, Maru-san recommended another bottle that we had never tried before:
Maboroshi Kurobako - Junmai Daiginjo Genshu Sake (Hiroshima, Japan):
Made by Nakao Brewery, with Yamada Nishiki Rice (many consider it the best Sake Rice), it uses a rare Apple Yeast to develop this Sake. Another beautiful box and package, but more importantly, how was the taste?
Richer, sweeter, fruity. There was definitely an almost apple or melon note (but not artificial), just this wonderful fruit note that hits the front and mid palate. It’s the roundest of all the Sake we’ve tried so far this evening, and it finishes clean as well. So enjoyable to drink on its own, and it paired well with the next few courses. Another standout Sake. (@BradFord @ColinMorey @ipsedixit @A5KOBE and all)
Aji - Horse Mackerel - Nagasaki, Japan:
The Aji on this evening’s visit isn’t as bold and rich as some versions of Horse Mackerel can be, but it was still very good. And as before, Maru-san’s Sushi shows off that focus on the importance and sourcing for the Shari (Sushi Rice). You can truly taste every grain, it’s not overly mushy, nor too dry. It’s also not overly vinegared like some places as well. This remains our favorite Shari in the city.
Kue - Longtooth Grouper - Kyushu, Japan:
I don’t remember ever having Kue (Longtooth Grouper) before, so this was a nice treat. There’s a meaty, almost gelatinous quality to the Fish, but it’s quite delicate (in line with Tai (Sea Bream) perhaps). But then pairing it with the Maboroshi Kurobako Junmai Daiginjo Genshu Sake… stunning! 
It was a flawless pairing and both the Sake and the Sushi were enhanced by this. Wow.
Maguro Zuke - Wild Bluefin Tuna - North Carolina, U.S.A.:
This lightly marinated Maguro was delicious. Tender, balanced seasoning, still lean, but still tasting like it had higher marbling content than it actually had.
Toro Sawara - Spanish Mackerel Belly - Mie, Japan:
Buttery. Luscious. Out of control! We’re in the height of the season for Toro Sawara according to Maru-san, and judging by the taste of this, I would agree. One of the highlights of the meal!
Kan Buri - Premium Adult Yellowtail - Toyama, Japan:
To understand how masterfully presented and coursed out our meal was, Toro Sawara normally would be the highlight of any regular Sushi meal, but then for Maru-san to present this back-to-back with Kan Buri (Premium Adult Yellowtail) that’s also in prime season right now (Winter), just reflects upon a great Itamae’s understanding of the procession of the lineup and taste.
Whereas the Toro Sawara was all sorts of out of control buttery decadence, the Kan Buri was this controlled, focused bite of concentrated glory! It was lush, and pleasing and had fattiness, but it was all pinpoint accurate, whereas Toro Sawara was just out of control and “wide” in its flavor explosion if that makes sense. Outstanding! Don’t miss this! (@ipsedixit @ColinMorey @Mr_Happy @paranoidgarliclover @A5KOBE and all)
Nanbu Bijin - Daiginjo Sake (Iwate, Japan):
The Sake was flowing far too easily and we had to slow things down a little bit, so for the next bottle we decided to try their Nambu Bijin (Southern Beauty) Daiginjo Sake. I’ve been a fan of their Ginjo, but had never tried their Daiginjo bottle before. This was fine. It’s a quality, good Sake, but after the previous 3 epic Sake bottles, it was hard for this affordable, standard release to compete. But we’d be glad to order it again in the future (just as the opener perhaps).
Iwashi - Sardines (Aged 3 Days) - Hokkaido, Japan:
Today’s Iwashi (Sardines) were aged 3 days by Maru-san before serving. This is just outstanding Hikarimono (Silver Skinned Fish), and Maru-san’s Iwashi has consistently been the best in the city. Today’s aged Iwashi doesn’t eclipse the fatty, intense version we had a few years ago from Maru-san as well, but it’s still outstanding.
Kamasu - Barracuda - Oita, Japan:
Maru-san lightly grills the outer skin of the Kamasu (Barracuda) before serving. The result is lightly smoky, and the quick grilling brings out the fattiness and the caramelization adds even more flavor to the fish.
Ohtoro - Fattiest Tuna Belly - North Carolina, U.S.A.:
Years ago, having Ohtoro was the highlight of my Sushi meals, being so fatty and decadent, it was an easy choice. These days, I still enjoy it, but the other types of Fish with unique flavors shine more. The Ohtoro was really buttery and fatty and tasty (there was one tiny piece of gristle, but it was otherwise flawless). Tasty!
Saba - Mackerel - Saga, Japan:
Outstanding! Another great fish that sings in Winter, Maru-san mentions this year’s Saba is his favorite for the season. Taking a bite, you understand why: Beautifully balanced inherent oiliness, gently oceanic (in a good way), rich, bold. Another highlight of the evening!
Kuruma Ebi - Japanese Tiger Prawn - Kagoshima, Japan:
While I’m always a fan of Live Sweet Shrimp and its distinct texture, a great Kuruma Ebi (cooked) can shine in its own right. Maru-san’s Kuruma Ebi on this evening was one of the best I’ve had in recent memory. There’s an intense, distinct natural sweetness in the Shrimp meat, and even though it wasn’t alive and just dispatched in front of us, there was zero brininess. Just a clean, plump, tender meatiness.
Nodoguro - “Blackthroat Sea Perch” - Toyama, Japan:
In chatting about various Fish and all things Sushi, one thing Maru-san brought up again on this visit is that he doesn’t agree with the English naming of Nodoguro as “Blackthroat Sea Perch”, but like many U.S. restaurants adopting certain names even if they don’t actually reflect the Fish, it’s become more prevalent. Back to the Nodoguro itself:
Highlight of the meal!
It has so much balanced, buttery flavors. It’s fatty, but not out of control like Ohtoro. It’s got a lip-smacking buttery quality, but it just skates the line of keeping things in control. And it’s got a richer, more complex flavor than Ohtoro, but still has a delicate quality so as to not veer into the heavy, oily spectrum of Fish (like Mackerel or Kohada (Gizzard Shad)). This is one of the best Nodoguro Sushi we’ve ever had. (@Mr_Meatballs @BradFord @ipsedixit and all)
Uni to Tsukune Imo Temaki - Sea Urchin (Santa Barbara, U.S.A.) with Japanese Mountain Yam Handroll:
Those new to Mori Sushi and Maru-san may not know, but the end of the evening Handroll is something to be celebrated. While the contents will always be stellar, in this case, super bright, vibrant, sweet Santa Barbara Uni (Sea Urchin) topped with Tsukune Imo (Japanese Mountain Yam) and Shiso Leaf, it’s the Nori (Seaweed) wrapper that is the star (and always has been):
Shatteringly crispy Nori (Seaweed) that is bursting with real umami. It greatly enhances every single bite and is yet another highlight.
We reached the end of the Omakase at this point, but Maru-san asked if we had any special requests or wanted any additional rounds of Sushi. I was so full, but we all wanted to enjoy just a few more things…
Suntory Premium Malt’s Beer (Draft) (Japan):
While Mori Sushi has a few bottles of Japanese Beer on the menu, they have only 1 Beer on Draft: Suntory’s The Premium Malt’s Beer, imported from Japan. It is crisp, medium-bodied, malty and balanced. Not overly hoppy, not super dark and still easy drinking.
(Round 2) Buri - Adult Yellowtail - Toyama, Japan:
Stupid good. Still so focused and delicious. It’s got this clean, luxurious quality to this 2nd piece.
(Round 2) Nodoguro - “Blackthroat Sea Perch” - Toyama, Japan:
Absurd. I wish I could’ve had another piece after this, that’s how good it was! Still as fatty, sumptuous as the first round. It has that best balance of fat and lean, all the elements coming together in perfect harmony here.
Shiratama Zensai (Japanese Azuki Red Beans with Mochi Dessert):
And we finished our meal with the most fitting ending: Shiratama Zensai, a traditional Japanese Dessert made with Azuki Red Beans and little Mochi Balls (Pounded Rice). This was lightly sweet (not overly so), the Mochi was pliant and so soft and fluffy.
Mori Sushi, under the guidance of Chef-Owner Masanori “Maru” Nagano, continues to be such a delight. We’re glad to see it survive Year 2 of the pandemic, but we can’t imagine how hard it must be, since an Omakase Sushi experience is so intimate and it doesn’t hold up at all for Takeout. While Mori Sushi is operating with a scaled down crew these days (just Maru-san, no assistant chefs(!), and 1 main server), it hasn’t diminished the Omakase Sushi experience. In fact, our dinner this evening was probably one of the best Omakase dinners we’ve had at Mori Sushi ever.
From the exquisite preparation and care Maru-san puts in to the opening Zensai Course, to celebrate and reflect the season (each little bite took just as much effort as the more “showy” courses), to the outstanding Shari (Sushi Rice) to the quality and preparation and knife cutting of the seafood, to the best Sake menu at a Sushi-ya in the city, and Maru-san’s welcoming, amiable character, Mori Sushi remains at the top of the City of Angels.
Mori Sushi
11500 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90064
Tel: (310) 479-3939
