A Crown Jewel Restored - The Return of the Kyoto-Style Oden Specialist and Yakitori Guru - Torihei [Thoughts + Pics]

Update:

Since our fellow Onioners @BradFord @chienrouge were discussing fun, festive, value-driven Japanese cuisine restaurants to eat, it fortuitously coincided with our most recent visit to Torihei (as well as a couple visits earlier). :wink:

As previously noted, Torihei has thankfully been mostly restored to its former glory, when Chef Masakazu Sasaki (the OG Oden Master (and Yakitori expert)) brought back his stunning Kyoto-style Oden to the South Bay, and Co-Owner & General Manager Taigo Sato returned to run the front of the house again. While they never “left” the business, they were busy cooking and running their 2nd shop, Jidaiya when they opened that up and left Torihei in less than capable hands. But all that’s changed with their return. Chef-Co-Owner Masataka Hirai (the OG master of the Yakitori Grill (Grilled Chicken Skewers over Japanese Binchotan Charcoal)) is busy running the business operations of both restaurants, but he and Sasaki-san have been working hard on training a replacement.

Beef Tongue Soup:

A newer item that Sasaki-san added to the menu, the Beef Tongue Soup features luscious bites of Gyu-Tan (Beef Tongue) that have been slow cooking in a Housemade Soup. It is rather delicate, beefy, and delicious! :blush:

Limited Special Hearts with Garlic Skewer:

The first of our Yakitori skewers arrives: Since the OG days, Torihei uses Binchotan (Japanese White Charcoal) to grill up their various Chicken, Meat and Vegetable Skewers. The smoke is delicate, the Special Chicken Hearts with Garlic are plump, moist, and fantastic with their Housemade Tare Sauce (a Soy Sauce based Sauce). They have the best Housemade Tare Sauce for Yakitori in So Cal, balanced, not overly sweet like some places, and a great accent to each skewer that the restaurant chooses to use Tare Sauce for (the other choice is Shio (Salt)).

Kara-age - Fried Chicken:

Make sure to verify that Sasaki-san is in the house on the day of your visit (he’s there most days, but has a few days off, usually middle of the week), and you’ll be treated to some of the best Kara-age (Japanese Fried Chicken) locally. Fantastic frying, lightly crisped, moist, juicy Jidori Chicken within. It’s not overly salty, not too greasy like too many versions these days. It is SO GOOD, and great drinking food as well! :heart: (@chienrouge @ipsedixit @BradFord @paranoidgarliclover and all)

Takeno Tsuyu - Junmai Sake (Yamagata, Japan):

(Forgot to take a picture.)

One of the best Sake on the menu is a humble, inexpensive offering that Torihei serves by the Glass or Carafe: Recommended by a friend of mine from Tokyo, Takeno Tsuyu (which means “Dew of the Bamboo”) is “only” a Junmai Sake, but it is stunning in its roundness, clean, crisp, pure, and with a cool, dry finish! It pairs so well with most of the offerings on the menu! :heart: (At a fairly priced $8 per glass, or $15 per carafe (that works out to be only $45 for a full 720ml Bottle!), it is must order and so undervalued!) :heart: (@chienrouge @BradFord @paranoidgarliclover and all.)

Negima - Chicken Thigh with Green Onion Skewer:

The Negima (Green Onion and Jidori Chicken Skewers) arrives next. Nicely grilled, once again, the Japanese Binchotan Charcoal is delicate, the Jidori Chicken (Torihei continues to use higher quality Jidori Chicken since the OG Grand Opening days until now) is tender and moist, and the nice bursts of Green Onion flavor with their Housemade Tare Sauce brings it all together. Must order. :heart: (@chienrouge @A5KOBE @BradFord and all)

Sunagimo - Chicken Gizzard Skewers:

Perfectly cooked, with a nice snap and crunchiness. :slight_smile:

  • Tip: Don’t forget to pour out some of the Shichimi Togarashi (7 Spice Blend), and the Sansho Pepper, onto your plate for Yakitori (both are tableside sitting in little containers). Then experiment and dab a little bit of the meat / veggies into each flavor and see which one you prefer (or none at all). :slight_smile:

Kawa - Chicken Skin Skewers:

On this visit their Yakitori Chef-in-training held up admirably well, making some fantastic skewers. The Kawa is one of the hardest to get right, and there was some crispiness to the skin (without over charring), but we would’ve preferred just a touch more rendering of the skin. Still quite tasty.

Tsukune - Chicken Meatballs:

But the one Yakitori skewer you shouldn’t miss out on is their Tsukune. Their Housemade Jidori Chicken Meatballs have remained a highlight and favorite since the OG days. Sasaki-san and team mix in some Chicken Cartilage into their Tsukune and the result is this ultra tender, moist, delicate Jidori Chicken Meatball, broken up by tiny little crunchy bits from the Cartilage, all beautifully complemented by their balanced Housemade Tare Sauce. :heart: :blush: :heart:

(Kyoto-Style Oden) Konbu - Stewed Sea Tangle:

The first of their Kyoto-style Oden (delicate Stewed Vegetables and Proteins) arrives. The Konbu (Sea Tangle) has a nice, slippery, but substantial texture, there’s an umami, savory flavor coming through, and it’s all nicely supported by Sasaki-san’s Housemade Kyoto-style Oden Broth, which is lighter, and more delicate than the usual Oden Broth tastes locally. Make sure you enjoy the Broth as well! :blush:

(Kyoto-Style Oden) Tamago (Stewed Soft Egg with Salmon Egg):

The one noteworthy compromise to their menu these days is that since Sasaki-san has to oversee all 3 stations / facets of the kitchen (Yakitori, Oden and Fried, Stewed, Rice and other items), he’s unable to focus and only do Oden like he used to. His assistants working on Oden are very good (using Sasaki-san’s Housemade Oden Broth and recipe / guidance), but they haven’t mastered the Hanjyukku Tamago (the Soft-Boiled Egg). It’s definitely not hard boiled, but the yolks are set and no longer liquid / jammy like they used to be. Still, the dish itself is still tasty and a nice experience with Chicken Egg and Ikura (Salmon Egg) in their delicious Kyoto-style Oden Broth.

Gyu-Tan - Beef Tongue with Wasabi Skewer:

Torihei also makes one of the best Gyu-Tan (Beef Tongue with Wasabi) skewers locally. It’s beefy, moist, meaty, but also sufficiently tender and absolutely delicious! (And a great pairing with Sake & Beer.) :wink: :heart: (@ipsedixit @A5KOBE @BradFord @chienrouge @paranoidgarliclover and all.)

(Kyoto-Style Oden) Daikon (Stewed White Radish):

Perhaps our favorite from their Kyoto-style Oden menu remains the humble Daikon (White Radish), which is gently stewed in their tasty Oden Broth for hours, resulting in this beautiful, soft hunk of earthy, vegetal Daikon Radish that has soaked in all the wonderful Broth. :heart:

Shishamo - Grilled Smelt Fish Skewers:

And one of the classic drinking food stars might have to be Shishamo. Torihei offers these Smelt Fish nicely grilled in Skewer form. It’s gently smoky, briny (in a good way), like a kiss of the ocean breeze, meaty and delicious as is, or with some Beer and Sake. :wink:

Okura - Grilled Okra Skewers:

Their Okra Skewers on this visit were simple and pure. Don’t forget they have a Bacon-Wrapped Okra version which tastes a bit more flavorful. :wink:

Shiitake - Grilled Shiitake Mushroom Skewers:

Their Shiitake Mushroom Skewers are always a delight. Gently kissed by the Japanese Binchotan smoke, tender, bursting with natural umami flavor, and the Katsuoboshi (Shaved Bonito Flakes) is perfect. :heart:

Kaze no Mori - “Wind of the Woods” - Black Label - Tsuyuhakaze Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu Sake (Nara, Japan):

Kaze no Mori (“Wind of the Woods”) along with other brands from Yucho Shuzo brewery are quickly becoming some of our all-time favorites for great Sake to enjoy with a variety of foods. For this bottle of Kaze no Mori, the Black Label release denotes them using Tsuyuhakaze Rice, which is native to Nara, Japan. This being a Muroka (Non-Charcoal Filtered) and Nama (Unpasteurized) has resulted in a bottle with natural effervescence! So you get this fizzy bubbly sensation, with beautiful fruitiness, some wild flavors, and a clean finish! Delicious. :heart:

Yaki Onigiri - Robata Rice Ball:

One of my favorite ways to end a meal at a Yakitori-ya, the Yaki Onigiri, or Grilled Rice Ball is beautifully grilled over their Binchotan Charcoal, and you end up with this toasted, crunchy exterior and soft, fluffy Rice within, and a choice of fillings. We chose Ume (Japanese Plum) on this visit. :blush:

Another Visit:

On another visit, Torihei was as lively as ever (with indoor and outdoor tables available). I was a bit wary, but also breathed a sigh of relief that in this pandemic, some degree of normalcy was around. The festive Japanese Izakaya / Yakitori-ya atmosphere, with Sake and Beer and great small plates and skewers flowing was sorely missed in 2020 and 2021.

Shichida - Hiyaoroshi - Junmai Sake (Saga, Japan):

Shichida Sake delivers consistently, but it’s a nice surprise to see Torihei stock the Shichida Hiyaoroshi Junmai Sake, which is allowed to mature longer (over the Summer) to give it a longer maturation time and as a result, this Shichida is more full-bodied, robust, rich, sweet, coating the palate, and a great pairing with many of the items on the menu. :slight_smile:

(Kyoto-Style Oden) Gobo (Stewed Burdock Root):

Gobo (Burdock Root) is probably more often seen locally in its Kinpira Gobo form. At Torihei, Sasaki-san fries it and then stews it in the delicious Housemade Oden broth. You get a fun textural contrast from expectations with this usually sturdy root vegetable, and the earthiness plays well with the delicate Oden Broth.

(Special) Katsuo Tataki Oroshi Ponzu (Seared Bonito with Grated Daikon Ponzu Sauce):

Torihei usually has 1 or 2 Sashimi / seasonal Fish specials, and on this visit they had a delicious Katsuo Tataki (quickly seared Bonito) served Sashimi-style with a Grated Daikon and Ponzu Sauce. The Katsuo slices were fresh, inherently a richer, deeper flavor, and that quick Tataki sear released some oils and added to the mouthwatering aspect in each bite. :slight_smile:

Shima Aji - Striped Jack - Sashimi:

Their daily special Sashimi on this visit was Shima Aji (Striped Jack) which is one of my favorite Fish. This tasted bright and had a great balance of lean and a bit of fattiness in each bite. :slight_smile:

Gyu-Tan - Beef Tongue with Wasabi Skewer:

As delicious as the previous visit. Nicely grilled slices of Beef Tongue over Binchotan, prepared with just a touch of Shio (Salt) and served with chopped up Wasabi Stems and Leaves. Excellent! :heart:

Fried Shishito Peppers:

Just a great snack fitting a relaxed Japanese Pub-type setting (and great drinking food). :wink: Flash fried Shishito Peppers topped with Katsuoboshi (Shaved Bonito Flakes).

(Off-Menu) Agedashi Tofu - Deep Fried Tofu with Broth:

OG Torihei used to have a fantastic Agedashi Tofu (a classic dish seen at Izakaya and other places featuring Fried, Battered Tofu in a savory Dashi Broth), but with COVID-19 and staff shortages, they streamlined their menu and took it off. :frowning: However, when the kitchen has time, you can ask and see if Sasaki-san can make their off-menu Agedashi Tofu, a tribute to the OG menu, and it is fantastic! Excellent frying, a beautiful Dashi Broth, it’s comforting and satisfying on so many levels. :blush:

(Special) Nasu no Ohitashi - Simmered Eggplant in Seasoned Dashi Stock:

This was a tasty new Special, Nasu no Ohitashi, which is slow Simmered Eggplant in their Housemade Seasoned Dashi Broth. This was tender, slippery, with the Eggplant chunks fully absorbing the Dashi Broth in each bite.

Ankimo - Monkfish Liver:

A good version of Ankimo, which some folks have dubbed “the Foie Gras of the Sea,” and rightfully so, in its creamy, unctuousness, but nicely offset by the Ponzo Sauce and Citrus. :slight_smile:

(Special) Ochazuke - Dashi Broth Over Rice with Japanese Pickled Vegetables:

They had a special this evening doing a wonderful comfort food dish known as Ochazuke, which usually involves pouring Tea or Dashi Broth over Rice and enjoying it with some Japanese Pickled Veggies. Torihei uses a variation of their Oden Broth, but it’s lighter, and with some bits of Seaweed, Green Onions, Sesame Seeds, and some Pickles? Just a great, light way to finish up a meal.

Jikasei Annin Tofu - Creamy Housemade Almond Tofu:

One of the OG Desserts that has remained on their menu since the Grand Opening days, Sasaki-san makes an Almond Tofu in-house, which is not overly sweet, fragrant and nutty.

Another Visit:

Chopped Cucumber with Sesame Oil:

As refreshing as our previous visits. It’s a great starter to a meal, especially in the Summer heat. Crisp, cool, snappy Cucumber chunks, Tomatoes in a Sesame Oil Dressing.

Takacho - Regal Hawk - Bodaimoto Junmai Muroka Genshu Sake (Nara, Japan):

We brought in this bottle to see how well it would pair with the Yakitori and various small plates here at Torihei. For those that haven’t had this yet, Takacho (“Regal Hawk”) is a Bodaimoto-style Sake, which according to the Brewery, they helped revive this OG method of Sake making that started 500 years ago(!). :open_mouth: It involves “creating a lactic acid starter mash from scratch, using raw and steamed Rice” and I can safely say there is no Sake we’ve tried that tastes anything like this!

It’s insanely complex, layers upon layers of flavors. Rich, almost evoking Toffee(!), it’s earthy, fruity, exploding with flavors and so clean on the finish! :heart:

And it paired well with most of the dishes we ordered tonight.

Kara-age - Fried Chicken:

When Sasaki-san is in the house, Torihei’s Kara-age Fried Chicken remains one of the standout versions in L.A.! Nicely fried at the right temperature, not oily, crispy, moist, and seasoned just right. Comfort food done well! :heart:

Okra w/ Pork - Bacon-Wrapped Okra Skewers:

A great offering at Torihei is their Bacon-Wrapped Okra Skewers, a variation of their Grilled Okra, but this time, wrapped with Bacon. :slight_smile: (They also have excellent Asparagus Wrapped with Bacon, Quail Eggs Wrapped with Bacon Skewers as well.)

(New) Yu-Dofu - Boiled Tofu Special Pot with Spicy Sauce:

It’s always nice to see a Yu-Dofu dish featured locally. Torihei’s version is a Boiled / Simmered Tofu Pot in a very light Dashi Broth (different from their other 2 - 3 variations), with some Salmon, Shiitake Mushrooms and Housemade Chicken Meatballs. It’s served a Ponzu Sauce Set (with Chili Sauce) to let you customize each bite as you choose. This was quite enjoyable, light, refreshing, and a great dish that doesn’t get too heavy during the Summer.

Negima - Chicken Thigh with Green Onion Skewer:

Still one of our favorite Yakitori skewers, perfectly grilled Jidori Chicken Thigh, so moist and tender, and their Tare Sauce is outstanding.

(Kyoto-Style Oden) Hanpen - Stewed Soft Fish Cake:

Another of the standout items from Torihei’s Kyoto-style Oden menu is their Hanpen, which is a Housemade Fish Cake, delicately stewed with their Oden Broth. It remains so airy, fluffy, and stunning in its texture, even after all these years, it continues to delight the senses. :heart:

Sunagimo - Chicken Gizzard Skewers:

Very good again on this visit. Nice and snappy!

Tsukune - Chicken Meatballs:

Seriously, so good! Moist, juicy, the fun textural contrast with bits of Chicken Cartilage remains. :heart:

Kawa - Chicken Skin Skewers:

The Kawa on this visit was nicely improved from the previous visit; it’s clear the assistant learning the Yakitori Grill has improved. This time, the Chicken Skin had the perfect amount of rendering, so that every bite was crunchy Grilled Chicken Skin, it’s decadent, but also light. :heart:

Be sure to order early, because Kawa usually sells out fast each night.

Chicken Breast with Wasabi Skewer + Pork Belly Skewer:

The beauty of Yakitori is that if you’re going with family or close friends, you can always share a Skewer if you don’t want to overeat (or want to sample more variety). :wink: The Chicken Breast with Wasabi is a touch dry, but still moist-ish. Not as great as when Masa-san was manning the grill back in the OG days, but this was decent. The Pork Belly was fatty, and nicely grilled. :slight_smile:

(New) Kawahagi - Seared Filefish:

One of the newer menu items, they’ve added Kawahagi (Seared Filefish) and it’s got that intense, delicious brininess, it’s chewy and awesome food to pair with Beer and Sake. :slight_smile:

Petite Tomato Skewer:

Skewers of Tomatoes grilled over Binchotan. Simple, but tasty! :slight_smile:

Ika Yaki - Grilled Squid with Yakitori Sauce:

Torihei’s Ika Yaki is another highlight worth ordering, they take a whole squid and grill it perfectly over Binchotan Charcoal. Every bite is still tender, just cooked through, nicely grilled, delicately smoky and is another standout! :blush:

(Off-Menu) Zosui - Japanese Rice Porridge:

And another off-menu item that can be made when the kitchen isn’t too busy, you can check with the staff if Sasaki-san can make his excellent Zosui, which is a loose Rice Porridge made of Steamed Rice slowly cooked with a Housemade Broth with an Egg and bits of Stewed Beef Tongue (or Chicken, depending on the day). This is super humble, home food that’s the definition of comfort food. There’s nothing fancy about it, but it’s made slowly and with care, and it shows when you take a bite. It tastes like it’s nourishing your soul. Highlight! :heart:

Another Visit:

On this most recent visit last week, Sasaki-san and team were totally on point. One of the best meals we’ve had at Torihei since they returned.

Gasanryu - Special “Crystal Flower” - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Yamagata, Japan):

torihei3_094

A friend of ours brought this along to celebrate. We’d had one Gasanryu Sake years ago (a Junmai Daiginjo) which was delicious. This was a Junmai Ginjo and seasonal variant. Taking a sip: A bit floral, bright, crisp, but then it had a sharp alcohol bite by the mid-palate, then quickly subsiding to a dry finish. It was brief, that sharp bite was interesting, but ultimately a bit unpleasant.

(Kyoto-Style Oden) Daikon (Stewed White Radish):

Fantastic! Beautifully stewed Daikon Radish in their Kyoto-style Oden Broth. It’s comforting, nourishing and humble. :heart:

Negima - Chicken Thigh with Green Onion Skewer:

Excellent! Moist, juicy Grilled Jidori Chicken Skewers with Green Onion. It was almost borderline luscious in how nicely grilled and lacquered they were with the tasty Tare Sauce. :heart:

Tsukune - Chicken Meatballs:

Still fantastic and the best Tsukune rendition locally.

Gokyo - Arabashiri - Junmai Nama Genshu Sake (Yamaguchi, Japan):

torihei3_102

I think this is the first time we’ve ever had a Sake from Yamaguchi Prefecture in Japan. The Gokyo Arabashiri was definitely smoother, rounder and easier to drink than the Gasanryu. This worked pretty well with most of the Yakitori.

Okra with Pork Skewer (or Bacon-Wrapped Okra):

Delicious smoky, crisped Bacon wrapped around fragrant, vegetal Okra, nicely grilled. :blush:

Gyu-Tan - Beef Tongue with Wasabi Skewer:

Outstanding tonight. We ordered seconds as our dear friend was so blown away by the beefiness in these. :heart:

Yagen Nankotsu - Chicken Cartilage Skewers:

We appreciate how Torihei uses Yagen (Chicken Breast Cartilage) for their Cartilage Skewers, instead of the fattier bits from the Leg and Thigh (which we also love). But Yagen is rarer, and these are maximum Cartilage crunchiness. :slight_smile:

Kara-age - Fried Chicken:

Just as great as the last few visits. Sasaki-san manning the Agemono (Fried Foods Station) really shines here. :heart:

(Off-Menu) Agedashi Tofu - Deep Fried Tofu in Dashi Broth:

Thankfully on this visit, the kitchen had a slow period and they were able to do their off-menu tribute to their OG Torihei menu item, Agedashi Tofu. Every sip of their Agedashi Tofu Broth, a bite of the Deep Fried, Battered Tofu and silkiness within was nourishing. :heart:

(Kyoto-Style Oden) Hanpen - Soft Fish Cake:

As absurdly fluffy as before. Sasaki-san’s Housemade Fish Cake is a stunner: So light and delicate and nothing like most Fish Cakes you’re expecting. Their Kyoto-Style Oden Broth continues to shine. :heart:

Fried Shiitake Mushrooms:

In a newer spin, Torihei is flash frying a variety of items to add to the menu. These Fried Shiitake Mushrooms are perfectly fried (not heavy with oil), all at the deft hands of Sasaki-san these days. It’s still got the burst of umami, deep Mushroom flavors, and enhanced by the Shaved Bonito Flakes.

Fried Shishito Peppers:

These are even better this visit: You can tell when Sasaki-san is in the kitchen, as these arrive perfectly blistered and flash fried. Each Shishito Pepper is cooked through, but still has a beautiful texture.

Fried Wakasagi Smelt Fish:

While smaller than Shishamo, the Fried Wakasagi (Japanese Smelt Fish) are still an excellent taste, lightly briny (in a good way), a nice bit of Fish meat and crunchy batter. And again, awesome with Beer and Sake! :blush:

Grilled Chicken Liver Skewer:

We had one of our Offal-loving friends join us this evening, and of course Liver appeared. :wink: Torihei’s Grilled Chicken Liver Skewer is nicely cooked, moist, tender, not overdone in the slightest. Their balanced Housemade Tare Sauce helps tame the mineral bite of the Liver.

(Off-Menu) Sa-mon to Ikura Kamameshi - Salmon and Salmon Egg Iron Pot Rice:

Torihei normally serves a Chicken Kamameshi these days, but when the kitchen has breathing room, they will sometimes do a variation with Salmon and Ikura (Salmon Eggs) in their Iron Pot Rice, which is just tastier. This used to be on their regular menu, but again, with COVID and staffing shortages, they streamlined and removed it. This was delicious and a great finisher to the meal. :slight_smile:

A note on the nice array of Japanese Beer and Sake on the menu: Torihei features a nice selection of value-priced offerings such as Sapporo Draft for $5.50 for a 16 oz pour, or the “Tower of Power” (a huge Tower of Sapporo on Draft - 84 oz!) for only $24. :open_mouth: They also have Kawaba Snow Weizen (delicious) and a few other offerings.

Their Sake list isn’t fancy, but they have great values as well for quality Sake that pair well with Yakitori and Oden, such as Otokoyama Junmai (Hokkaido, Japan) 300 ml for $25, Kikusui Junmai Daiginjo 300 ml (Niigata, Japan) for $25!

Shichida Junmai Sake (a solid choice) for a full 720ml bottle is $65, and the aforementioned favorite, Takeno Tsuyu Junmai Sake (Yamagata, Japan) is only $8 per Glass, or $15 for a Carafe. These are massive bargains, especially when you taste it. :wink: (@chienrouge @BradFord and all.)

Their Yakitori Skewers are in the $2 - $4 range for most, and Oden also in the $2 - $4 range for most items.

With the latest few visits, we’re glad to see Torihei continue to maintain a very good consistency. With Chef Masakazu Sasaki back in the kitchen these days (their OG Oden Master) overseeing the whole kitchen staff, and still preparing their excellent Kyoto-style Oden Broth, manning the Frying and all Stews, Cooked Dishes, a well-trained assistant for Oden and Yakitori, and OG GM and Co-Owner Taigo Sato back overseeing the front of the house, Torihei is back, serving up the best Yakitori and Oden in the city right now.

Torihei
1757 W. Carson Street, Suite A
Torrance, CA 90501
Tel: (310) 781-9407

https://torihei.torihei-usa.com/

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