First time poster here. I’ve been lurking in the Hungry Onion for awhile, doing food research for various trips. I was interested in this thread because I will be going to Madrid and Andalusia in the fall. I was curious and googled Juana la Loca, mentioned in this thread as excellent but now closed. I learned that apparently it has reopened at C. De los Recoletos, 10, Salamanca. Just thought I would let you all know.
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I’ll go by Recoletos 10 today to check it out. It’s in the former space of Zest, the “low calorie” restaurant. That space has been many restaurants in the past years.
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Thanks for the heads up the pictures on google look like some of the same dishes that Juana had previously
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You are very welcome, hungryhippos, and I will look forward to hearing what Maribel has to say after she checks it out.
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krystle920,
Both Casa González and Alimentación Quiroga or even the wildly popular stands at the Mercado de San Miguel (go early there! and higher prices) will hand slice your jamón and wrap it for you.
All of these places will sell you excellent olive oil and if the Museo del Pan Gallego is closer to your apartment, buy your bread there for sandwiches or at Obrador San Francisco if it’s closer.
The bread at either will be fine.
For Alex Cordobés, since you want to go slowly in the mornings, try the afternoon before it closes at 9 pm (closes Sun. at 2 and all day Mon.)
Mallorca is the only pastelería that I know that carries the Fismuler cheesecake other than the bakery/restaurant The Omar inside the 5-star Hotel Thompson (Hyatt) on the Plaza del Carmen.
I have had brunch there and the baked goods are nice. The Omar is owned by the La Ancha group, that also owns Fismuler. And I checked a review and The Omar seems to have the cheesecake on its dessert menu, so I assume you could get it “to go”.
I’ll go by the re-incarnation of Juana la Loca today on swank Recoletos (Salamanca district) to check it out. You could combine Juana la Loca on Recoletos with your visit to Alex Cordobés on Velázquez or Casa Dani on Lagasca/Ayala.
Sit down dinners----it depends on which restaurant.
At La Catapa, Castelados, La Castela, La Monteria, La Monte (high tables here only), which are neo tabernas, neo tascas with both more formal dining areas and high tables around the super lively bars, we order for the center and then add plates if we feel we haven´t ordered enough and want to try more dishes.
There are some great Spanish-Peruvian hybrids here, serving chifa (Peruvian-Chinese) and nikkei (Peruvian-Japanese) cuisine. We like Quispe in Salamanca on Conde de Aranda, but there are many others.
TOGUITA, much closer to you, on Cava Alta in Latina serves Latin American/Asian dishes and would be inexpensive.
No online rezzies at Toguita–you have to call or reserve on Facebook.
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@krystle920
Botín’s cochinillo compares well to José María’s in Segovia. The difference consists in the number of foreign tourists. Botín is very, very much a tourist-centered restaurant (serves many pitchers of sangria and even has a “tour” plus dinner), while José María, while having its share of foreign visitors, isn’t as packed with them as its rival, Mesón de Cándido directly facing the aqueduct.
I’ve dined at Botín, and in Segovia at José María, Cándido, Duque and most recently at Asador Maribel, the latter which attracts locals or Spaniards only, pretty much, because of where it sits–an excellent value and friendly service.
Of all the cochinillo/tostón roasting houses in Segovia, I prefer José María only because it has a broader menu, attracts more locals and its house wine, Pago de Carraovejas is superb. On our last meal there, we sat for the first time downstairs, whose walls are covered with lovely ceramics and is a very inviting and quiet space. Portions there are huge. One can also have tapas and wine at the bar.
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As to conservas, canned tuna (ventresca), mackeral (caballa), atún de almadraba (blue fin) of the Herpac or Petaca Chico label, both available at Mercado de la Paz, sardines, clams, razor clams, anchovies…
This stand you’ll find within the Mercado de la Paz at Lagasca/Ayala in the Recoletos barrio.
https://alacenadelgourmet.com/tienda/conservas
You’ll find plenty of conservas in the local indoor markets.
I love this extremely atmospheric delicatessen just below Mercado de la Paz on Calle Ayala
My favorite potato chips, to which I’m addicted, are the ones of the “Bonilla a la vista” label. Luckily I can find them at my local deli or in the city at the Club del Gourmet of the El Corte Inglés department store.
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One thing to note on Jose Maria is that at the bar downstairs you can order a racion of cochinillo which I think is pretty consistent with what you get in the restaurant but a smaller portion. Also they have one of the best flan I’ve had in Spain.
Lovetotravel,
Thanks so much for the news of the very, very new relocation of Juana la Loca, just 8 days old!
I only have a very brief review because we could only drop in quickly for a vermouth (Zarro label) and a pincho of that famous tortilla before heading off to lunch at the new Yokaloka on Plaza de Matute (highly recommendable for a very affordable, small plates Japanese meal in a very attractive, soaring space with original décor and dishes prepared on the robata).
My impression: a much improved, larger, attractive space on very swank Calle Recoletos, which is being pedestrianized and turning into a “restaurant row”. Much more upscale in feel, a kind of old time Parisian bistro look, with a long bar, high tables to the side and a low table dining space in the front and behind the bar in front of the kitchen.
Currently it attracts a well-heeled local crowd (visitors don’t know about it, even many madrileños, because it hasn’t been hailed in the gastro press yet----again, only 8 days old!
The famous tortilla is darker with more caramelized onions than that of Casa Dani and served atop a slice of baguette. Everyone around us ordered the tortilla, although the other quite large pintxos looked inviting.
Service needs to be improved, as the brand new staff hasn’t had time to mesh as a team, but again, they’ve had very little time to do so.
In short, we’ll put it on our regular rotation when in the Salamanca district, and for visitors, it IS open on Sunday nights, when many great pintxos bars are shut tight.
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Forgot about that smaller portion of cochinillo/tostón at the bar.
We enjoy dining there at night, not ordering cochinillo, which Spaniards consider far too heavy for an evening meal (although it’s available and many visitors order it), but instead their other more creative dishes, including several vegetarian options.
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@krystle920
I just read the Infatuation Madrid list (had never seen it before), and of that list…
I would vote for Kuoco, although it’s strictly fusion, and they will be moving soon to a large space on Calle Barquillo in Salesas (but not inexpensive at all),
plus Fismuler, always a winner for me,
also Casa Dani but just for its legendary tortilla (with or without onion),
Tripea, again for Spanish-Peruvian fusion where one must reserve a month in advance for its 8-dish tasting menu, priced now at 60 euros and with only 20 counter seats at a communal table (not inexpensive!!),
Angelita for wines and cocktails
Corral de la Moreria, for the country’s best flamenco performances. I was just there with a former flamenco dancer friend to see the wonderful Eduardo Guerrero.
El Corral de la Moreria offers surprisingly pleasing cuisine from Basque chef David Garcia, with a Michelin star.
Again not at all inexpensive but if you want to see the best in flamenco you can attend without a meal, just go for the performance
I can no longer recommend Sala de Despiece on Ponzano, and it will be moving soon.
Nununka is Georgian and Cilindro is a Spanish-Peruvian hybrid, ok, but not worth crossing town for.
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OP did not mention horchata. The best of my life was in Spain, though not Madrid. Is there anywhere in Madrid that comes highly recommended?
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Yes, for horchata I go to Horchatería Alboraya at Alcalá 125.
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Ferretería Restaurante on Calle de Atocha, a 10 minute walk from Plaza Major, is small, but does have some group tables if you can get a res. An old hardware shop, great atmosphere, food, and wine, normal US restaurant prices.
Ferretería Restaurante, C. de Atocha, 57, Centro, Madrid
That’s a big crew and since most places are small dividing up may make sense. There are dozens of great Queseria (cheese shops) where you can grab a light lunch and a good glass of wine. My fav:
Casa Gonzalez
Leon Street, 12, 28014, Madrid
Be sure to arrange a private guide for the Prado, jumping the line is essential. Advance tickets are needed for the Palacio Real. La Reina Sophia museum is worth if for nothing else than seeing Picasso’s “Guernica”.
Wonderful city. Walk 'til you drop, and have a great time.
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In addition to Casa González for cheese and charcuterie, also my favorite, we do like as well Alimentación Quiroga, equally well priced, and also on Calle León, but it would be tough for a group, seating wise. Casa González does have a back room and can accommodate your group if you advise them in advance.
Ditto to Ferretería on Atocha for wines. It´s close to América for breads and just steps away from the lively indoor market, Mercado de Antón Martín.
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From your original list (I’m sure you’ve been busy culling 
), I honestly wouldn’t bother with anything on the often tourist-soaked Cava Baja, tapas wise, with CASA LUCAS being the exception.
That means culling Laminak, Emma Cocina, Pez Tortilla, La Perejilla, Viuda de Vacas (Cava Alta).
I would also eliminate Taberna Almería and Taberna Sanlúcar.
IMO, Taberna Errante is better and gets a nod from the Repsol Guide, and Tabanco la Santa on Santa Maria will give you authentic cuisine of the Sherry Triangle (sherries and tapas), plus it’s a member of the Triciclo group. But there you have high table seating only, save 2 tables for 4 in the back.
100 Montaditos is a nationwide chain, a very large one, as is Rodilla, that will give you very inexpensive sandwiches to feed a large family for a very low price, but neither is memorable, cuisine wise, but good for those families or students on a very strict budget.
As for pizza, you have Pizza Pronto near the charming, newly renovated Plaza de Olavide in Trafalgar, where the kids can play. So I would eliminate Fratelli.
I’ve never been to Casa Gerardo Almacén de Vinos on Calatrava, but I’ll check it out since it gets a nod from the Macarfi guide. On the same street is Casa Dani, Vinos 11, but it has nothing to do with Casa Dani in the Salamanca district inside the Mercado de la Paz–so as not to get them confused.
For Basque steak, if watching your budget, I would go instead to ASKUABARRA at Arlabán 7, just above Las Cortes (the Parliament building), and remember to share. Reservations are required, as in most places.
I was there recently and 2 ladies were sharing a 500 gramo txuleta (€38), which is plenty for 2, if one adds a shared starter (such as an ensaladilla rusa) and a shared dessert (torrija caramelizada).
Casa Julián de Tolosa on the Cava Baja and the other Casa Julián on Calle Ibiza in the Retiro district can leave a group with a more hefty bill. Just mentioning this, since budget is a concern.
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Here’s the menu with prices (not 2025’s) of Julián de Tolosa on the Cava Baja so that you can decide whether it’s within your budget or not…
https://cavabaja.juliandetolosa.com/pdf/Carta_CavaBaja_ES_12_2024.pdf
Like many fine dining establishments here, it’s closed Sunday nights.
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Thank you for all the feedback! I just had a few follow up questions -
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For places that charge a “per person” cost for bread, does that also apply to kids (age 7, 7, 4)? Can we ask the charge to be removed if we don’t want bread? If we do want bread, does it mean unlimited bread or does this charge only apply to one basket of bread?
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Is Baldoria worth the trek? How does it compare to Pronto? The only reason I have it on the list is it’s on the World’s 50 Top Pizzas. https://www.50toppizza.it/50-top-world-2024/
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I appreciate the horchata recommendation. We have a lot of Mexican horchata here in LA so it would be great to compare. Are the ice creams at the horchateria also worth getting? I expect the kids would want ice cream but not sure if there are specific Madrid standouts.
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Would we find decent chips and conservas at a place like Supermercados Dia? We are staying near Calle Mayor but I also read online the El Corte Ingles basement grocery is overpriced.
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For jamon, it seems like we need to get the jamon iberico bellota. How much is a good price for that?
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For cheese, we tend to like aged manchegos. Is there a specific brand we should look out for?
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People seem to like Casa Benigna for paella but it’s far and above our budget. Any recommendations for paella in Madrid?
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We are going to Toledo on a day trip. Thoughts on Taberna Skala? We also plan to try to famous Santo Tome mazapan. Looking at Toledo guides, it seems the local food musts are partridge, venison, wild boar, and carcamusas pork stew.
Yes, head over to Valencia 
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Yes the bread charge is per person, regardless of the age. I´ve never asked for it to be removed, but you can request that you not be served bread. At La Catapa, for example, they ask if we want the bread, and most often we say no.
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I haven´t had the pizza at Baldoria but I do know the pizza at the new Pizza Pronto, which, because it´s new, hasn’t made it to that list of World’s 50 Top Pizzas.
Here’s a recent list of the “best pizzas” from Time Out Madrid. That said, we were totally underwhelmed by the pizza at Mo de Movimeinto, so I don´t recommend it, despite the low price.
https://www.timeout.es/madrid/es/restaurantes/las-mejores-pizzas-de-madrid?cid=email--NEWSLETTER--EMEA_ES_MAD_ES_EDITORIAL_20210209--313871--2/9/2021&subsid=38988--5001--4017796 -
Mexican horchata is totally different from Spain’s. It became painfully clear to me when our niece from Pamplona ordered a Mexican horchata in Seattle and proclaimed it totally inferior!
If the kids want ice cream, there are many heladerías here from which to choose, and the closest to your apartment around the Plaza Mayor would be MISTURA near the Plaza Mayor at Calle Ciudad Rodrigo 6.
https://misturaicecream.com/heladerias/ -
Yes, El Corte Inglés supermarkets are more expensive than Día, not necessarily overpriced, because of the high quality. But if a Día is close to you, look for conservas and patatas fritas there.
At Día you probably won´t find the brand ¨Bonilla a la Vista¨, at least they definitely don´t have them at my Día. I purchase them at my gourmet shop.
5 The price for jamón ibérico de bellota depends widely on the brand, the years/months of aging, whether it is hand cut or machine cut, etc. And whether it is pure bellota, very important. There is not a “good price”. As I wrote above, Casa González on Calle León has good prices, and it is hand cut.
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No specific brand. We like the manchego not super aged but young, and we also like the manchego with rosemary. Like this one
https://mantequeriasbravo.com/products/queso-manchego-con-romero-250-g?srsltid=AfmBOoqLFdxxTh0Iyl5XMZot9XrCharS9gkor_8H9hNeF6eG4ifmZI7L -
Please don’t make the long taxi ride all the way north to Casa Benigna, despite the (over) hype.
You can have beautiful paella or other rice dishes at BERLANGA, which faces Retiro Park. My favorite place in the city for rice dishes, and the chef is from Valencia. Madrid denizens in the know call it the best of the paella restaurants here, and I agree.
His paella is as fine as those you can find in Valencia, believe me. The chef is the son of the famous cinema director, Luis de Berlanga, and the dining room is both extremely comfortable and refined.
https://restauranteberlanga.com -
Yes, the cuisine of Toledo is very game-based, as the province is filled with private hunting areas: partridge, venison, wild boar plus that carcamusas stew. I’ve never dined at Taberna Skala. But it does have a Repsol Guide “solete”, so I’m confident that it’s fine.
And do try the mazapán at Santo Tomé.
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