6 days in Granada, Cordoba, and Seville - affordable must eats

We loved Los Diamantés so much we went twice. Loved the navajos, langostino pil pil, champignones, pulpo. The calamari plancha served with tomatoes was the standout. Anything similar to this in Seville?

We’re getting tired of potatoes and pork stews.

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For seafood and shellfish, head to LA BARRA DE INCHAUSTI in Sevilla. And if it´s on the menu, please order their sopa de galeras, one of the best versions I´ve ever had.

We loved Casa Morales in Seville. We had the grilled pork, pulpo, arroz con pato, bacalao con tomate, grilled foie, spinach with chickpeas, among others. The standout was the grilled pork- everyone said it tasted like steak!

Bodeguito Antonio Romero was disappointing. The piripi sandwich was flavorful but relatively straightforward ingredients. We ordered the grilled pork again but their version was very bland so we had to add a lot of salt. Their other items were also generic.

I wonder if it’s still worth trying Casa Moreno and Bodeguita Romero or would they be too similar? Same with Las Teresas and Casa Roman.

The issue is we need to order a lot of food for our group so we cannot go to places that are good for just 1 or 2 dishes.

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Ingredients of the piripi of Bodega A. Romero: bacon, cheese, pork loin, tomato and ali oli.
Ingredients of the pringá of Bodeguita Romero, according to Azahar

Since you´re tiring of pork stews and potatoes, there are restaurants specializing in seafood in Sevilla that you might want to try, such as the Barra de Inchausti, mentioned above and these:
Salmedina
Barbiana

As to the former, Cervecería Salmedina, we had a wonderful lunch with our friend Azahar, and the fish comes straight from the Rota pier. The family also provides the seafood to the Michelin-starred Cañabota and its casual bar around the corner, La Barra de Cañabota. The prices at Salmedina, unlike Cañabota, seemed to us quite affordable, menu is long, there are daily specials and it has an informal atmosphere…

For Salmedina, one can make reservations on Cover Manager in the link provided on the restaurant’s Instagram. Peruse the photos to see if this would appeal to your group, however.

https://www.instagram.com/cerveceriasalmedina

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Krystle, I’m following along with every bite!! I also thought the food at E. Morales was wonderful, and there were so many choices.

Following Maribel’s suggestion, I had dinner at INCHAUSTI. I think it would be just what you are looking for, as there is a wide range of dishes on offer at reasonable prices. (Frustrating for me as a single!)

Your group could get space in the bar area; if you have the time, you could arrive at opening hour (8:30pm, but do double check) to allow them time to set up a table for your group. If you want to have dinner there, you might stop by during the day and ask if they can have a table ready for your group at your preferred hour. I’m not sure if there is English fluency among the staff, so perhaps come armed with a list of the dishes that interest you. Sopa de Galeras was at the top of my own list (I’ve never tried galeras in Spain but you might know them as mantis shrimp); their season is from December through March.
Photos here:

The poor weather during my stay meant that many of Inchausti’s seafood items were unavailable but today looks like the start of a stretch of sun and temps in the 70sF.

Thanks! Inchausti might work for lunch today. We are looking for big plates of seafood grilled or sautéed in olive oil like in Los Diamantés. This is a group that eats a lot! We’ve had servers tell us several times we already ordered too much but we always finish everything and order more! I think it’s because we are treating places as full blown dinners not just tapas grazing.

Thoughts on La Brunilda or Augurio for dinner tonight? Too small portions? Too fusiony? People have not been happy so far with fusion or fancy places.

Salmedina might work for dinner. This is just a tough seafood crowd because people are used to fresh or live seafood cooked immediately in the Philippines.

It may not be cooked immediately coming straight out of the water into the pan, but the seafood comes in daily from the pier in Rota.

Peruse the menus of both La Brunilda (very popular with tourists!) and the new Augurio to see if it would appeal to all or read Azahar’s updated reviews. Augurio may have too short a menu for your group.

I agree with Maribel about AUGURIO. The shortness of the menu and the portion sizes might not fit. I think INCHAUSTI would be a better; the fresh seafood is not gussied up with anything fancy and when they do add a sauce, it’s a simple one, so the quality of the fish and shellfish will shine through. I believe that they own fishing boat(s) in one of the nearby coastal ports.

Since you loved Los Diamantés in Granada, what about one of the Sevilla restaurants featuring fried fish? There are quite a few of these in the city; this is one of them, LA ISLA; take a look at the “fritura” section of the carta:

https://laislarestaurante.es/carta-la-isla/

This is close to E. MORALES and to the Catedral, and also to INCHAUSTI!

I was going to mention La Isla, the home of the pescaíto frito, of very long standing. It would be the closest in the city in style to Los Diamantes in Granada. Our Sevilla based friends took us there long, long ago to introduce us to their fried fish.

We enjoyed our lunch La Barra de Inchausti. We ordered all the hot tapas and they were solid to above average, but the standout was the grilled red tuna. The tuna was soft and seared perfectly. The seasoning was just right. Very fresh and one of the pieces was even the belly so it tasted like seared toro. Anything else like this dish in Seville or Madrid?

No one wants fried seafood so just focusing on grilled or lightly sautéed.

There are many restaurants in Madrid that offer grilled blue fin tuna (atún rojo). These, however, may or may not fit your group’s category of affordable, especially if it is a noted restaurant.

Grilled blue fin prices can err on the high side in Madrid, especially if the tuna purveyor to the restaurant is Balfegó or Petaca Chico. The latter has a bar and small dining room inside the Mercado de la Paz in the Salamanca district. The Mercado de San Miguel has a stand, Tatún, offering bluefin as well. Prices at this food court run higher than modest tabernas but most visitors enjoy a stroll around and a tapa, but go early as it gets packed to the rafters.

The ones in Madrid that I’m familiar with, Tragabuches, Lobito de Mar, Bibo (all 3 Dani Garcia establishments) and, Kulto tend to run on the expensive side…your final check will not be at all like yours at La Barra de Inchausti. They are “fancier”, with more fusion items on their menus.

Look at the menu of Deatún on Ponzano in Chamberí to see if there is anything that speaks to your group.

In Sevilla, the restaurant Casapuerta, a little piece of the Costa de la Luz, like la Barra de Inchausti, transported to Seville, I personally find casual, enjoyable and for me affordable, and it focuses on the cuisine of the coast, as the owners hail from Vejer.

But peruse the menu here to make sure that it pleases your group.

We will have to convince Krystle920 to come to Barbate!

Look at the menu at this “temple of tuna:” (I will go for dinner tonight); and this is only the bar menu; more dishes are on offer in the main dining room, but inexpensive it’s not, especially for a group of enthusiastic eaters. Krystle I think your next trip to Spain is already partially planned!

CRUDO

Carpaccio de paladar con sorbete de lima y albahaca ® > 25
Top of the palate of tuna carpaccio with lime and basil sorbet.

Sashimi de ventresca aburi con yema de erizo > 30 / 45
Belly sashimi aburi.

Sashimi de lomo (descargado) > 22 / 33
White loin sashimi.

Sashimi de ventresca (toro) > 28 / 42
Belly sashimi.

Trilogía de sashimi (lomo, tarantelo y ventresca) > 21 / persona
Tri sashimi.

Surtido de crudo (tartar, lomo picante, tataki, sashimi lomo y ventresca) > 2 pers. / 42
Assortment of raw.

Tartar de lomo (descargado) > 23 / 29
Loin tartare (toro).

Tartar de ventresca (toro) > 34
Belly tartare (toro).

Tataki de descargamento (lomo negro) > 22 / 33
Black loin tataki.

Lomo picante, wakame y daikon > 26
Spicy loin,wakame and daikon.

Ceviche de lomo blanco > 26
White loin ceviche.

CALIENTE

Corazón a la plancha o aliñado > 12 / 16
Heart grill or seasoned.

Morrillo a la plancha (graso) > 34
Dorso cranial muscle grill (fatty).

Ventresca a la plancha (graso) > 29
Belly grill (fatty).

Tarantelo a la plancha (semigraso) > 28
Sirloin grill ( less fat).

Lomo a la plancha (seco) > 29
Loin grill ( low fat).

Chuleton de atún (ventresca, tarantelo y lomo) > 123/kg
Tuna Rib eye ( loin, sirloin and belly).

Parrillada de atún (Ventresca, tarantelo, parpatana y solomillo) > 36 / 72
Assortment bluefin tuna grill.

Costillas de atún asadas > 17 / 24
Tuna ribs roasted.

Parpatana asada con curry y coco > 28
Fatty part of the jaw baked (fatty).

Contramormo al horno (graso) > 34
Baked tuna head part.

Solomillo con salsa dulce picante (semigraso) > 28
Loin of tuna with sweet and
spicy sauce (less fat).

Facera (carrillada) con salsa de Oporto (graso) > 19 / 27
Tuna cheeks in pinenuts sauce (fatty).

Galete (cococha) estofado (graso) > 19 / 27
Fleshy parto f the jaw stev in dry.

Ventresca con salsa de miso y mostaza (graso) > 21 / 29
Belly with mustard and miso sauce (fatty).

@krystle920
Are you returning to Madrid? Did you find the Bonilla a la Vista patatas fritas en el Gourmet Experience?

The finest atún rojo (blue fin) in southern Spain comes from the Costa de la Luz; Barbate, Conil, Zahara de los Atunes, Tarifa, Chiclana. The true specimen and the finest, as you see, is not inexpensive at all but so memorable if budget allows.

The Balfegó is caught in Cataluña, between May and June and goes to the aqua farming facilities in L’Ametlla de Mar. Balfegó has a huge presence in the gastronomic conferences, Madrid Fusion and SS Gastonomika. Just so you know the difference.
Balfegó, a Catalán company.
Petaca Chico, an Andalusian company from Conil, who have recently opened the “almadraba experience” in the center of the Mercado de la Paz, Salamanca district in Madrid.

@erica1
Cooking Almadraba, belonging to Petaca Chico, has just reopened in Conil, so perhaps next year in the spring, you might want to visit this also charming white washed town with gorgeous beaches, such as La Fontanilla.
https://www.instagram.com/cookingalmadraba/?hl=en

Luis Callealta is the chef, who just closed his restaurant in Cádiz, Ciclo, which I really enjoyed on my last visit. He´s one of the Cádiz province’s best chefs and was the director gastronómico de Aponiente by Angel León (“the Chef Del Mar”) in El Puerto de Santa Maria.

Both Repsol and Michelin recommended.

We are returning to Madrid for one night before flying out. I might have to look for the chips at the Gourmet Experience there. I looked in the Gourmet Experience in Seville but they didn’t have it.

We really enjoyed our meal at Bodeguito Romero. We ordered the lentils with morcilla, lagartito iberico, revueltas, albondigas de choco , pringa, carrillera iberica, tarantelo de atun rojo. Their tuna was not as a good as Inchausti but still delicious. The kids loved the pringa so we had to order more. The lagartito was not quite as good as Casa Morales but still delicious.

The lagartito iberico might be one of my new favorite discoveries on this trip! Who knew grilled pork would be this good? Is this something also common in Madrid?

We are staying one night in Plaza Santa Ana in Madrid before flying out and still have lots of room in our luggage! What should we buy and where? Any specific conservas or cheeses or other gourmet items? I’m going to try to buy some more Jamon iberico here in Seville to eat more of because we can’t take Jamon back unfortunately!

Since you´re staying on the Plaza Sana Ana, you can walk to the delicatessen Casa González on Calle León for cheeses. They have a nice selection. Or Alimentación Quiroga at Huertas 19. For other gourmet items, go to the Gourmet Experience on the top floor of the El Corte Inglés at Preciados where the sky is your limit.

I purchase our lagarto ibérico at RazaNostra.
La Rayua in La Latina at Tintoreros 4 has it on the menu, but I haven’t dined there.

I bought a few cheeses in El Corte Igles in Sevilla and this one has been my favorite so far; it is a sheep cheese from Trujillo. You could look for it if you go to EDI in Madrid:

You will laugh at me, but here are my purchases from a 2023 visit to Andalucia–to Jerez and Vejer, arrayed on the bed before attempting to pack:




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