I grew figs and propagated them for years when I worked for Monticello (Thos. Jefferson Memorial foundation). I made cuttings in early Oct. from many types. At this point, dormant flower/fruit buds were already made on the parent trees. The cuttings rooted on a heat mat over the winter, mostly leafless. Then, after potting them up, they leafed out and these foot-high fig trees had a bunch of figs growing on them. cute!
Figs are really hardy and tough. Still, for best fruit production you want to take care of them. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers (see above post). I fertilize them in the early spring, every other year. While actively growing and the fruits are absent or small, they can take moist soil when itâs warmer and let them dry a bit more when the temperatures are cool. In very hot, dry conditions, figs can drink a lot, wilting if stressed. By midsummer, I donât fertilize and start reducing water, especially as fruit ripens. When fruit is ripening, I donât water them unless absolutely necessary. If they wilt from dryness, apply a minimum of water to prevent fruit splitting. You can apply about 1/4 inch (.6 cm) of surface water if leaves have moderately wilted, and see if the leaves recover. Mild wilting is ok. If more water is needed, apply it in small amounts.
I water in the âdrip lineâ, under the foliage, away from the main stem(s)/trunk(s). This is helpful in preventing insecticidal dust from washing off of the lower trunk(s). I dust these as fruit ripens to prevent ants from climbing up and eating the figs. Some serious fig fruit pests require insecticide sprays or insect-proof netting. Major fruit insect pests include the European Hornet, Green June Beetle-a.k.a. Fig Eater, and the fairly recently introduced pest, the Spotted Wing Drosophila (Drosophila suzukii). This last one, unlike common fruit flies, has an egg-laying ovipositor which punctures intact fruit, laying eggs under the skin. Itâs far worse than the common fruit fly for this reason. The common one, D. melanogaster, lays eggs on damaged fruit, it canât penetrate the skin.
Thank you! We just got a bit under 4 inches of rain, in one night. A lot of it ran off, but the creeks are still dry. We need a lot more, but Iâm glad the fire potential is diminished for now.
Thank you x 1000000 for your reply and wealth of information. .
Yes to drought!!! Ugh!!! I was outside cutting the grass yesterday and sort of moved in a Jackson Pollack like way since only patches here and there have actually been growing, if that!! Love the exercise with mowing grass (I use push mower for about 3 hilly acres). A friend of mine has a fruit orchard which is doing well, and Iâve told him I am super happy for him, but he also tells me others are struggling because of drought.
I suspect one or more of my in ground fig trees is struggling due to lack of water ⌠but Iâll see what happens next spring. I will seek out the equal numbers fertilizers as you suggest (thank you) and not feel guilty about my lack of pruning.
Fairfax!! Yes - former Vienna resident for years. And Old Town prior to that. I remember the humidity of OT - prob cause of proximity to D.C. and the marsh/swampy area. Great for running (at least training) (in my opinion). I wonder if humidity is helping gardens there cope with the drought.
Thank you again
Do you guys keep picking zucchini and other squash once the leaves have a downy or other mildew? I have a lot of plants, they all came down with it (happens this time of year), and I pulled out 2 large plants, to use as compost for some trees.
I sort of donât like the idea of using the squash but they are still producing.
Our zucc plants always get moldy when they reach end-of-life stage. It doesnât seem to matter whether they were planted early (dry) or late (wet). The mold doesnât bother me as long as the veg looks healthy and shiny. I keep harvesting right on through October until first frost does the last of them in. You can cut them back quite a bit of the mildew bothers you - sometimes I do, sometimes I donât.
I donât know, your figs look downright glorious to me. My SIL has one that her husband prunes BRUTALLY, that grows about fifteen feet in every direction per growing season. I strongly suspect that itâs sitting on top of their leaching field, plus they have a well and tend to water it a lot.
Well, pruning trees (and shrubs) of any sort shouldnât be more than about 20% of the top growth at any one time. The top growth, leaves, feeds the root system and vice versa. They establish a balance which shouldnât be ignored for the health of the tree. Too much top pruning and the roots start to starve. As a result, rampant, fast growing branches and suckers sprout to try and provide sugars back to the roots. This growth is often soft, weak and prone to breakage.
Figs are tougher than most plants. Here, they often lose all top growth due to deep freezes. By midsummer, theyâre back up to six feet (1.8 m). This type of freeze eliminates the breba crop and no figs ripen later before it gets cold.
Weâre all familiar with what happens when roots get damaged; the leaves wilt. The balance of root to leaf is, again, off.
In very dry climates, Iâd use a less concentrated fertilizer more frequently, maybe half normal strength. Itâs important not to have salt buildup in the soil; so leaching with just water, when fruit isnât ripening is a good idea. Do this when itâs warm. Avoiding salt buildup is true for all plants. In climates where thereâs enough precipitation, rain does the leaching.
As far as I can tell, all of Virginia is humid during most of the late spring and summer. Winds from the east bring sea air; from the west, mountain air passing above, through forests. Dew is often heavy, even during a drought. All the plant life is evaporating water to keep cool. Here, where some areas are impassable without a machete (or better yet, a sword), itâs just like a jungle, a wilted jungle this year.
Fall carrots - the first pick from our second planting.
Most of what is left is either second plantings, or fall fruit. Late summer producers such as peppers, tomatoes and and eggplants are still going strong, but weâre ripping out spent squash plants, cucumbers, zucchinis, peas, beans.
Some old shiitake logs were ignored all season, through the drought. I thought theyâd be easier to pitch, since I thought they had expired. Despite drying out all summer, with no care, the recent rains and cooler temperatures made for a surprise when I went to uncover the 2023-inoculated logs (not ready to fruit).
i understand and agree, but thereâs no talking to BIL. He cuts that fig down to a foot or two every winter. I think Iâll ask him for a few twigs so I can start a couple. Itâs a pretty extraordinary tree.
- former Vienna resident for years. And Old Town prior to that. I remember the humidity of OT - prob cause of proximity to D.C. and the marsh/swampy area. Great for running 
(at least training) (in my opinion). I wonder if humidity is helping gardens there cope with the drought. 
