Can you do two seasons of tomatoes there, like I hear they do in Florida and Texas? I think nights are too cool for that here, as is my level of frustration by September.
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I’m going to recommend this ant bait, which has worked very well for me on my balcony.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E4GACB8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
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That’s been my whole tomato growing experience in tucson with the exception of the times I grew Black Krims from seed. I know I posted this before, but I did everything wrong- planted seeds too late, WAY too late, they grew, they persevered in a garden that was as good as I could make it, they got huge, they had cracks on top, the temps were way over 100,so I couldn’t fault them. They were delicious- spicy, salty,and rich tomatoey. I gave some seedlings to a coworker, and he’s been buying Black Krims ever since, but they haven’t been the same.
Once I planted cherry tomatoes in the community garden at work, and foliar fertilized them with VF11 eveery week. That was the only time I had too many tomatoes. I used to pick them on the way to lunch and shared them with my lunch bunch. That was a once in a lifetime thing for me in Tucson.
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We use terro in our old townhome with a vacant 1st floor and we recommend it for all your murderous urges.
I have a lot of them.
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black krims are incredible. i love them so.
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what tomato varieties did you grow? what is the one in the very middle of the paper towel photo (the only one turned upside-down)?
These are all Dwarf Tomatoes Project Tomatoes
Dwarf Fred’s Tie Dye
Dwarf Wild Fred
Dwarf Perfect Harmony
Dwarf Crimson Sockeye
Dwarf BrandyFred
Dwarf Beauty King
Dwarf Sneaky Sauce
Dwarf Choemato
Dwarf Lucky Swirl
I may have missed some
That one is Dwarf Fred’s Tie Dye, bottom up, and on either side, right side up.
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Tie Dye must be having a moment; my tomato mentor ™ asked me if a photo i posted was that variety, which I’d never heard of!
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There are also a few different non-Dwarf, Berkeley Tie Dye tomatoes, bred by Brad Gates, of Wild Boar Farms who is from around this area.
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Vegetable of the day: Blue Lake pole beans.
Like everything else, these came on heavy with the heat. This is the morning pick, and there will be another in the early evening.
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Yes- I’ve even had some overwinter. They do need protection and a south-facing wall behind them though
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I’ve grown sorrel from Johnny’s, just stay away from the red veined one; it gets tough and unusable with age. Also, be aware that sorrel hates hot weather and may go dormant. You want to start the seeds around 65 degrees F (18 C ), before it gets hot.
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I had to stop growing Blue Lake (pole) because it stopped producing during the hot, humid summers here. It was going pollen sterile with temperatures in the mid to upper 90s and warmer due to solar heat gain (over 100 F).
Now, Kentucky Blue, a cross with Blue Lake and Kentucky Wonder has replaced the old standby; it outproduces B.L. with equally delicious flavor and texture.
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I’m going to make a note of your variety. Typically summers here are not all that warm (70’s, 80’s), but the last few years have seen exception to that.
Thanks!
Just when I was wondering why my figs were so small, and taking so long, they started to “blow up”, literally, overnight! This one actually split on the tree, overnight. It was the fig in the netted bag in the last picture two days ago. I’m glad it was in the bag, and I didn’t hesitate to eat it. Tasty!
I see a lot of conflicting information about how much water they need, and over the weekend watered a lot. I’ve always thought there were from dry climates and drought tolerant, but last year got no figs, and thought lack of water might be way.
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Here’s the scoop on figs, based on many years of growing them:
Most figs make their early crop, the “breba” on last year’s (new) growth. If that growth dies back or gets pruned, the breba crop is reduced or lost. The second, later crop is often too late to mature in colder climates and appears on new growth.
Once figs have formed and are nearly mature, withhold water unless they wilt. Too much water can cause splitting of the fruit, even if it’s green. If water is required, add just enough to moisten the soil a little. Figs are generally deep-rooted and reasonably resistant to drier soils. Splitting is quite variable, depending on the variety. I’ve had less issues with Hardy Chicago than Brunswick, a large fig which reliably splits if it rains. Some, like Brown Turkey, may get skin cracks versus splitting in two.
If the fruits appear to rot on the trees, look for an introduced Asian pest, the Spot wing Drosophila, a fruit fly which punctures the fruits and lays eggs inside. This nasty fruit fly attacks all sorts of fruits and I’ve had to spray my figs to kill them, using a pyrethroid, contact spray.
If ants go after the fruits, you can apply an insecticide around the base of the tree, covering the lower stem and avoiding the fruits. A dust is good to form this barrier.
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Perfect! Thank you.
