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7
Just a few from a small market near my lodging.
Cheap plonk. The most expensive wine is a little over eur.6,-. Names of wine regions are written on cardboards. Hungary has many wine growing regions and they all produce certain wines in them.
Rendered fats of goose, duck or pig. I always get mine from the Hungarian at the market. I don’t think Hungarians ever cook with other fats such as vegetable oil or olive oil.
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Central Market. So very mesmerising, especially the butchers and cured meat stalls. I notice the butchers do sell some cured meats but the cured meat stalls only sell cured and smoked meats.
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9
Poles are mad about mushrooms and the season is about to start. Eur.50 worth of dried cep mushrooms on the table. A fraction of it would cost me here for the same weight. The caps alone are more expensive than slices. Market stallholder says the caps are more aromatic.
They do have the first fresh ceps now but they need more care to carry in my bag so I didn’t get them. For this kilo price in Poland I get only 100g at home.
New to me, parasol mushroom. One has to be careful not to eat any green spore. Highly toxic in raw form.
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Harters
(John Hartley - a culinary patriot eating & cooking in Northwest England)
10
No photos, I’m afraid, but we return from Norway with our only souvenirs being food related (well, that’s a shock, I hear you think).
The Fish Market is now very much a touristy place with most of the stalls turned into casual cafes, selling seafood related lunches. It did provide us with a tube of locally smoked caviar spread. You’d squeeze it out of the tube onto, say, crackers. Think a salty, fishy spread, the texture of cream cheese.
Another stall provided cloudberry jam
And the farmers market in Flaam turned up reindeer and whale salamis. Yep, a cutesy Christmas animal and an endangered species (probably) - sometimes you just have to say fuck the food ethics.
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11
I called it “tourists’ fish market”. My experience was more or or less the same as yours. The locals do their shopping at another fish market since it turned touristy. Loved reindeer salamis. Saw it in Finland as well. Reindeer salamis from Lapland of all 4 countries are a speciality.
I’m sure you recognise this: (open-faced) sandwiches. Those you haven’t been, that’s whale meat sandwich on far right.
I was also in Flåm for a couple of days. Astonishingly crowded when cruise ships passengers disembark for a few hours. Brought back a block of locally made sheep’s cheese called Geitost. Rich and unique. Never had such a cheese here.
Karjalanpiirakka - rice pie from the Karelian region, it has a think rye crust with a filling of rice or potato and butter mixed with boiled egg. We have tried both versions, the seller recommended the potato one, I have preferred the rice one. But since they were cold, I didn’t find them very appetizing. I saw in the Bourdain’s show that the pie were like an accompaniment served with a stew in a tradition meal.
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I have photos taken inside this market near the boat terminal. Will post them when I can.
There was no outdoor market when I was there but I had a good looked inside. I think I probably missed the market in the morning or on that day there was no market.
A charcuterie shop I like a lot in Tonneins, Lot-et-Garonne in south-western France.
The shop’s speciality is Sauce de Jambon de Tonneins, Ham from Tonneins. Ham is cooked for 12 hours with salt, pepper, Rabelais spices and a lot of garlic. It is a stew dish for winter, very good with boiled potatoes.
Usually blood sausage is quite floury, but theirs has some other parts of pork, like the cheek or the feet and some tendons plus some vegetables like pickles, the texture is more elastic, and crunchy, I like it more than the traditional blood sausage.
Paté de tête, is my favourite. Similar to blood sausage, this paté of head / cheek has even more pickles, the savoury - acidity and texture is well balanced.
We tried the second charcuterie shop that was also famous for their Jambon de Tonneins, we found it okay but nothing very special, we preferred the one from Carlotti for sure. We bought a lot last Christmas to bring back to Paris in the ice bag with the train. The price was like half or 1/3 of what we find in Paris.
Harters
(John Hartley - a culinary patriot eating & cooking in Northwest England)
15
That looks very like a product from the Flanders area of the Pas de Calais and across into the Dutch speaking part of Belgium. Sold as “pot jevleesh” in France and “potje vleesh” in Belgium. Uses pork and rabbit, I think. Always traditionally eaten with frites & salad.
It’s usually sold in jars which you decant into a flat bowl to solidify. I usually stock up at the Carrefour in Calais but didnt have time to visit the supermarket last trip.
I have tasted potjevleesh once or twice, as far as I remembered, it was wine based, was conditioned in a pot container and could be served cold out of the jar or reheated. While paté de tête, head cheese in English (I just found out) has to be pork offal - head, cheek, tongue, heart or feet with gelatine as binder with pickles and parsley. I think many European countries have their versions, even the Asian or the American (North or South).
Below was the version we ate in Din Tai Fung, Hong Kong last year.
Harters
(John Hartley - a culinary patriot eating & cooking in Northwest England)
17
I believe that’s in American English. In English English, we call it brawn.
Translated from the Flemish dialect of Dutch “potje vleesh” is “meat in a pot” or, better, “potted meat”.
I did a search on Google, it didn’t show a lot of results on brawn, I saw one recipe from an English chef James Martin. Is it common to eat this? Or is it too classic that is out of fashion?
Harters
(John Hartley - a culinary patriot eating & cooking in Northwest England)
19
Certainly out of fashion, naf.
That said, I’d expect to find it on sale in market halls in the north of England - sold by stalls that sell other sliced cooked meats like ham, corned beef, tongue, etc.
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20
Brawn is common in much of Europe (since the middle ages). Very common the farther north and east you go. I love it and make sure I eat it when in Germany (several variations and the best of them all).
I still remember being told upon hearing how much I like brawn… “did you know… when Bach was writing his masterpieces all we had to eat was brawn.” (The “we” is now developed countries here in northern Europe)
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I had Banh Mi here. A wonderful charcuterie shop in the area near my lodging in Hanoi. There was a cockroach crawling along the skirting board whilst I was eating but I didn’t freak out or dropped dead. Everything was delicious.
More memorable market visits include Tomohon market in Indonesia (err, the photos might be disturbing), and various neighborhood markets throughout South Korea (where ajumma are often preparing delicious banchan and bibimbap platters, among other dishes).
Japan gets top marks for its department store food halls, Bangkok may have the best-stocked supermarkets I’ve ever visited, and China has cool spontaneous night markets spotlighting regional fare.
They have like 20 different kinds of English bacon, amazing patés and terrines, homemade sausages including the best bangers, many different kinds of caviar, delicious cakes and tea to die for, preserves and honey, all kinds of fresh baked bread, quail, pheasant, venison, small producer smoked Scottish salmon, etc.
I actually bought the best steaks I’ve ever had in my entire life there, grass fed estate Aberdeen Angus from Scotland. Beef should taste like beef and reflect its terroir. These were amazing.
There is a whole floor of great food, and almost any delicacy you can imagine from all parts of the UK, just collected and curated for you…
For me it is a destination every time I’m in London
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25
Yep, have been to Harrod’s food hall. Fancy!
Markets in China and Vietnam are terrific. The markets in some places in China can be gruesome. Bloody butchered turtles, dogs and all other imaginable creatures just hung or flopped on the floor.
The best of locally made delicious things curated for you, plus lots of foreign delicacies.
Of course there is a lot of fun stuff to be discovered on the road in the surrounding area too.
Just cruising down the by ways you may run into a dorfkäserei making goat cheese, or a forellenhof raising and smoking their own trout.
If you only have one day in Stuttgart then, however, the Markthalle is a must. It’s also next to the Stiftskirche and Altes Schloss so very convenient to all the main sites.